A Saturday in Valencia

During my week in Valencia I have seen many sights, old and new, toured markets and museums, visited nearby towns and nature parks. On this last day however, with no real plans, I spend the day in my neighborhood El Cabanyal.

What does a relaxing Saturday in Valencia look like? 

I start with desayuno (breakfast) at the cafe close to my hotel. For the last time I watch the bright oranges, lined up on top of the juicer like a pinball machine, drop into the mechanism to be squeezed one by one. Orange juice is always made in the moment. Alongside my fresh juice, I have a cafe con leche and tostada con tomate y aceite (the bottle of olive oil is on the table to dress the tostada as I please). 

After breakfast I visit a fine bakery (Tahona del Abuelo) and the local market (Mercado del Cabanyal) for some mandarins and plums to snack on. I also source the delicious red wine I have been enjoying at the local restaurants. It’s made with the grape Bobal grown in the Uteil-Requena region of Valencia. A souvenir.

With my errands complete I head over to the beach for a brisk walk along the promenade – it’s essentially one long beach through it changes names as you head north (Cabanyal, Malvarrosa, Patacona). I am not alone this morning. It’s not crowded on the wide walkway but it’s scattered with Valencianos out for a stroll or jog or to walk their dogs. For those more active, there are volleyball nets and exercise areas all along the ample beach. Sail boats and windsurfers too. It’s a huge playground. It’s not only palm trees that line the promenade but also plenty of cafes and restaurants en primera linea del playa.

Having soaked up as much sun and salty sea air as I can, I head back to the hotel.

After a short break it’s time for lunch. I have tried various rice dishes throughout the week, but on this final day I go over to the marina for one thing and one thing only: Paella. I have learned a few things about this beloved rice dish of Valencia, and for starters, it’s only for lunch. I choose Senyoret – pealed seafood (shrimp, calamari, white fish). The seafood is good. The rice is the star, simmered in a savoury seafood broth. The variety is even noted on the menu: Senia variety D.O. Arroz de Valencia. Rice is serious business and seriously good. The friendly and attentive server tops up my wine. As often happens in Spain, I get the impression they genuinely want you to enjoy yourself.

And I do.

I also marvel at the modern building and chic restaurant I am sitting in alongside the shimmering turquoise water. Yesterday I had a lunch at a cosy taberna established in 1893. It was also seriously good. Traditional and modern, side by side in Valencia.

Exercise, fresh air, big lunch. It’s the perfect time for:

Siesta.

Refreshed, late afternoon I take a last stroll around El Cabanyal, the maritime district where I have been staying. The modernist architecture, while weathered, is striking. All week I have been stopping to admire the colourful tiles, sculpted facades and ornate wooden doors and balconies. 

I follow the intense sound of bells and see families dashing into the local church for 7:30 pm mass. Looking up I spot the two large iron bells swinging vigourously in the bell tower. Many streets are quiet, and then I hear chatter and clinking of glasses as I approach one of the pedestrian cross street filled with tables. Sounds of the neighbourhood.

There are many excellent restaurants in El Cabanyal (as I have sample throughout the week). Tonight however I stay in. I make a simple meal of olives, tomato salad, bread, queso de oveja and lomo iberico (cured pork) to use the last of my market provisions. 

I scribble this post. Pack my bags. My flight leaves early in the morning.

Along with the bottle of wine, I will bring home the memories from this wonderful Saturday in Valencia.