A simple guide to a fútbol game in Bilbao

1. You should know Bilbao has two cathedrals: Santiago and San Mames. 53,000 fútbol worshippers stream into San Mames stadium every time their team Athletic Bilbao plays. Locals have nicknamed the stadium El Catedral.

2. Didn’t know Bilbao had a football team? You will as soon as you arrive in the city. The team’s logo is everywhere. That bridge on the logo is one of the city’s oldest landmarks: San Anton bridge. The team is not quite as old as the 14th century bridge (reconstructed many times) but it’s old, established in 1898.

3. Every newborn in Bilbao receives an Athletic Bilbao jersey. On game day everyone will be wearing the team’s signature red and white stripes. Join in. Jerseys and scarfs are easy to find at shops around the city.

4. Athletic Bilbao is unique. In a professional football world that recruits from a global pool, their philosophy is to keep the team like family, only recruiting players from the Basque region. That’s a small area of about 3 million inhabitants mainly in northern Spain and across the border in France. Their unique philosophy has also been competitive. Along with Real Madrid and Barcelona, Athletic Bilbao is one of only three teams in LaLiga (the Spanish football league) that have never been relegated to the lower tier. (If the concept of relegation is new to you, I suggest watching Ted Lasso, it’s hilarious.)

5. Basque have their own language (called Euskara). Unrelated to other languages and of unknown origin, this ancient language is not easy for outsiders. But learn one word: AUPA! It’s a cheer like “Come on!” to show support for the club, often combined as AUPA ATHLETIC!

6. Now you’re ready to head to the stadium. When you find yourself in a stream of red and white stripes you know you are getting closer. The street that leads to the stadium is called Calle del Licenciado Poza but it will be obvious when you are on it. It’s utterly packed. You may catch a glimpse of the glowing stadium in the distance. El Catedral is calling you. Don’t rush (not that you could amongst the masses). Rather, indulge in two pre-game rituals:

6a. Grab a tortilla sandwich to go. It’s a Spanish tortilla (potato, eggs, maybe onion) stuffed in a baguette. Pick a place with a lineup and get in line! It moves quickly as the severs efficiently pack these tin foil sandwiches (called una bocata) in takeaway baggies.

6b. Grab a drink at a bar. Any bar will do. Squeeze in. A caña, a vino, any drink will do.

7. You’re all set! Merge with the procession marching excitedly towards the stadium.

8. Le Catedral stands in front of you pulsating with energy. Pink, purple and blue lights wave across the exterior. Soak in the light show. It’s mesmerizing.

9. Make your way to your gate and find your seat. No different than any sporting event. However, unlike Canadian stadiums, you will not find many kiosks to purchase food or drink. Congratulate yourself for following the pre-game rituals. When you sit down, tuck your sandwich under your seat for later.

10. You made it!

11. Kick off time nears, the beat of the drum elevates the already sizzling energy, and rolls of red and white fabric unfurl in sync around the stadium in a show of pure Basque pride. Stand as the crowd chants the team’s anthem. It’s in the Basque language, words are a blur. Thankfully we know one word: AUPA! Raise your scarf above your head stretched in two hands with “AUPA” facing the stadium. You are one of 53,000 red specs uniting the stadium in solidarity. You may wonder, where are the opposing team’s fans?

12. Watch the game. Cheer, swear, clap, pull your hair out. But do not eat or drink while watching the game. Eyes. On. Game.

13. The opposing team scores. You feel the despair of 53,000 souls. And you can now spot the opposing team’s fans. They are sequestered in one small upper section (take a closer look at cover photo). The bouncing cheering bodies clothed in green (the game I saw was against Real Betis, green jersey) are a stark contrast to the bowed heads of slumped Athletic fans. Yikes. Take a moment to mourn. A short moment only then it’s back to supporting your team. AUPA!

14. Halftime whistle blows and it’s time to have your tortilla sandwich. Everyone is.

15. Back to the game, more cheering, swearing, clapping, pulling your hair out. It was a 1-1 draw against Real Betis so I experienced the pure joy of a goal, but also the subdued energy of deflated fans. That said, Athletic fans always clapped encouragingly for their team, even after a disappointing play … and some choice words, I heard “Que pasa!?” “What’s happening!?”, “Es un chiste” “It’s a joke”, and “Que pena” “What a shame”, and other stronger words.

16. Final whistle blows. Ah, it’s over! Hope you had a blast. I did. Can’t wait to do it again.

AUPA ATHLETIC!