Cadiz by the sea

Cadiz feels like a seaside town. Jutting out into the ocean you are never far from water. It’s almost like an island. I could see from the train the narrow land passageway to enter the city, the sea within arms reach on both sides. The landscape was like a wetland in contrast to the dry arid land on the journey from Sevilla. This is sherry country as evident from the silhouettes of well known bodegas on the hilltops: Tio Pepe man and a classic bull (Osborne).

Walking out the train station I immediately smelled the breezy sea air. The main square by the port is lined with palm trees. The buildings are weathered and faded from the sea breezes….and because the city is very very old!

Cadiz is the oldest continuously inhabited city in the Western world founded in 1100 BC by Phoenicians. I won’t go through the layers of the cake but let’s just say you can see everything from an Egyptian Sarcophagus to a Roman amphitheatre to the medieval streets of Barrio del Populo.

The latter, the popular barrio, is the oldest quarter of Cadiz. It has three entrances through three old stone arches of different styles.

I walked along the beautiful seaside promenade which almost encircles the city. Fishermen were casting their long rods into the turquoise sea. Part of the original city wall remains but it’s mostly been taken down as the city developed over the years. Along the promenade there are lush manicured gardens. Tucked into the greenery are busts of famous Cadiz inhabitants. I saw a most humongous tree. The gnarly trunk looked like several trees in one and the canopy must have been 20 metres.

My guide told me that one stretch of the seaside – the buildings with pastel facades – is similar to Havana in Cuba.

The tower of the Cathedral offers wonderful views. I hiked up and up (and round and round) inside the tower to get to the top. It was worth it. I could see the sparkling water around the exterior of the city and the narrow, and mainly pedestrian streets, that run through the interior. It’s really is a picturesque city.

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I was lucky to see a flamenco show. There was an open air show on the rooftop of my hotel so I leapt at the chance.

The precise origins of flamenco are a mystery. There are influences from Arabic, Jewish, and Latin American music. Andalusia (the southern region where Cadiz and Sevilla are located) is where it started and where you can see this art form today.

Even without understanding the words I could tell it’s full of heartache, love and loss (I can’t live with you, I can’t live without you!) It’s passionate. Soulful. Mad intense. It starts slow and soft and crescendos to a frenetic pace. There was sweat dripping from the brow of the singer as he belted out his tortured lyrics. The guitarist’s fingers were fluttering quickly across the strings. The dancer stomping her feet made the floor boards shake. She danced with such intensity her hair came undone, her flower hairpiece flying onto the stage.

At the end of the two sets, the trio called up on stage other members of their flamenco group that had been sitting in the audience. The fin de fiesta (end of party) is an impromptu moment where they each take a turn in the centre of the circle and perform a short dance or song or both. It was loose and energetic and felt like they were encouraging each other to showcase their talents. It was amazing to see.

Moving on to food, I have quite enjoyed my breakfasts in Cadiz and in Sevilla. Tostado con tomate is a typical breakfast: fresh crushed tomato on toast with a drizzle of olive oil. At some cafes it’s already dressed, at others they bring you a little bowl of the crushed tomato and a bottle of olive oil to make it yourself. The orange juice is also fantastic, often freshly squeezed. I noticed a juicing machine in an express supermarket. Bring your bottle and fill it up with fresh juice!

On the topic of tomatoes, I have learned not to underestimate a tomato salad in Spain. Sliced fresh tomatoes with salt, a little herbs (parsley or basil) with garlicky olive oil. So flavourful! 

I have also had several bowls of salmorejo, a cold soup similar to gazpacho but thicker with a creamy texture (no cream, it’s all olive oil). The refreshing soup is garnished with pieces of hard boiled eggs and jamon. Another tasty tomato dish.

A little ode to Spanish tomatoes to cap off this ode to lovely Cadiz.