Camino de Santiago: Grapes, wine and sunflowers in Rioja

Rioja is beautiful. A small region with big landscapes, and of course, big wines. I walked across it 3 short days. It could certainly be done in 2 but I was glad to extend my stay. The days were over far too fast.

Logroño to Navarette – 13 km

Navarette to Najéra – 16 km

Najéra to Santo Domingo de la Calzada – 21 km

A nice easy stroll out of Logroño, through city streets and a green park where people were walking their dogs. Less than 5 km after leaving, the path curved around a lake (with ducks and swans) and into pine trees in Parque de Grajera.

Before the gentle ascent to the peak, I stopped at Marcilino’s rest stop for Pergrinos Pasante (it was an interesting stop and though I didn’t quite understand his whole story, he noted he walked the way with his dog and donkey who also received the credential). Before entering Navarette, I passed the ruins of an 11th century pilgrims hospital.

Navarette is pretty hilltop town where the streets seem to coil around the church and shady plaza mayor. Happily, I got an opportunity to visit an underground bodega and tunnels typical of the area. This underground wine world was under a restored 15th building that houses a stylish restaurant.

By the end of the second day I felt like the red Riojana dust had seeped into my pores. It certainly dusted my shoes. The red soil a striking contrast to the green vines. It was a dreamy landscape. Bright blue skies, crisp air. Deep purple grapes ready for harvest.

I loved my detour to pretty hilltop Ventosa. A one km art trail celebrates the simple and special moments in life.

When you are a child you ponder what it will be to be older. You dream of something big. And you don't realize that your biggest greatness is already in you. In that place. In that moment. In the afternoons in your grandmother's house. In the hug from your mother. In the look of your father. It is there. It was there. In the simplest things. 
We spend our lives searching for something we already have. It's only a matter of finding the path to return home. That's where our memories live. 
(Translation of the opening verse)

My simple moment to cherish in Ventosa was meeting a women who was cracking almonds plucked from her tree. She filled my pocket insisting she had more than she needed. The couple playing soulful music in a shady nook on the side of the Camino was also a special Camino moment.

Even with all my stops and detours I arrived with plenty of time to explore Najera. The town is unique in that it is built up against reddish cliffs. The earth and clay is layered like a sloppy stack of pancakes. Walk down a narrow street and it ends at a rock wall. This mountain of rocks is part of the town’s history. The construction of the Monastery of Santa Maria la Real actually started in a cave within. The ribs of the dome jut out from the rock.

The next day the morning light illuminated the rocks as I exited Najera through a tranquil pine forest. More red earth and green vines. I was so enjoying the vineyard scene, seemingly stretching on forever, that I was a little surprised when it ended. I came to the top of a hill and looked at the changing landscape: open plains of wheat coloured fields and sunflowers drying out the sun. Still in Rioja but not a grape in sight.

Santo Domingo de la Calzada soon came into sight. A monument stands at a rest stop just before the gentle descent to town. Erected in 2019 to celebrate 1000 years since the birth of this engineer of the Camino. A cutout of his figure is set in the arch of a bridge, one of many structures he built to support the safe passage of pilgrims in 11th and 12th centuries.

I couldn’t leave Rioja without a final taste of Rioja wine with my dinner. I was lucky to meet 3 pilgrims with an empty chair at their table (the only available chair in the restaurant!) Enjoyed my wine in good company. Cheers to that.