Camino de Santiago: Leaving Burgos

Not sure if it was nerves or excitement in my stomach as I left my hotel in Burgos but as soon as I found the Camino my stomach calmed. I stepped onto Calle San Juan, walked under the archway, and I was at peace. It felt good to be walking again with my only task to follow the scallop shells and see how the day unfolds.

Burgos to Hornillos del Camino – 21 km

Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz – 20.1 km

Beautiful first day walking out of Burgos and into the countryside. It rained heavily the week prior so nature around me was well watered. Vibrant green. I discovered it’s stork nesting season! As I passed the church in Tardajos a stork glided right over me, I could faintly hear the wind passing through its wings. Looking up I saw two nests on the church tower. Then approaching Rabé de la Calzadas two more storks flew by, a stork highway in the sky, and landed on the town church. 

On my way out of Rabés, a comforting and touching stop at the Ermita de Nuestra Senora (photo below). After stamping my credential, I bent my head so the nun could place a necklace around my neck. She embraced me and wished me love, peace and a safe journey to Santiago. It brought tears to my eyes. (I later met a woman who was so flooded by emotion by this gesture that her contact lens creased.)

From there it was a good 8 km stretch across open land. I took a short rest (the photo above) enjoying the view before descending down to Hornillos del Camino. On the descent I hooked up with a couple from Northern Ireland, recently retired. Walking the Camino (on the urging of their son) was top of their list of things to do once retired. In the first few minutes I discovered they both recently lost a parent to dementia. As they walk the Camino, they have a fundraising campaign for Alzheimer’s UK and Action Cancer.

Quite a racket exiting otherwise sleepy Hornillos the next morning: rooster’s cock-a-doodle-do and birds chattering as they zigzagged across the town’s main (and pretty much only) street. A Camino delight – my shadow elongated by the rising sun.

The landscape was shimmering in early morning dew. Amazingly green. Depending how the light hits the blades it’s emerald green or bright fresh green. Blades of what? I asked a passing pilgrim what the fields were. “El trigo.” Wheat. Huge quantities, fields and fields.

Peaceful morning walk, only the sound of birdsong coming from birds hidden in the fields. Beautiful sounds, beautiful scenery. Nice easy walking on gravel path. Sometimes totally flat, other times gentle hills on either side. Always green! Amazingly green, did I mention that?!

A row of benches appeared along the path. The landscape was otherwise uninhabited. I started to walk by, but at the third bench I sat down. It was a good reminder to take a break. Eat a snack. Drink. Take care of my body.

Good break in Hontanas for a tortilla on a terrace overlooking the church. From Hontanas for the next few kilometres it was time to practice Spanish. As I left the café I met a Spanish pilgrim walking with her parents. Her family owns a vineyard in Rioja (near Nájera). I remember this stunning stretch fondly at harvest time in September. She helps out with the harvest every year; the best part of the busy days are the long lunch breaks. It’s tough work. I also chatted with a couple from Mallorca who informed me there’s plenty of good hiking on the island, so many options in Spain!

The ruins of San Anton convent were imposing as we approached. These impressive ruins, directly on the Camino, provided an atmospheric and shady rest stop before the final 3 kilometres to Castrojeriz. I closed out my day with a delicious communal meal of roast chicken, pasta salad and a dessert as light as air at Albergue Rosalía.

In these first days I am feeling comforted from all the well wishes and Buen Caminos I received before I left home. WhatsApp texts, email messages, greetings on the street, knocks on my door, and lots of hugs….from family, neighbours, friends, and new Camino friends. I feel well supported. And clearly I have talked quite a bit about my Camino experience, so thanks for listening!