Camino de Santiago: Over the Pyrenees

I have arrived in Pamplona. I feel my legs, for sure, they have been worked, but I am feeling quite happy with the journey. It’s been a great 4 days of walking.

Saint Jean Pied to Port to the Virgin of Biakkori – 12 km

Virgin of Biakkori to Roncesvalles – 13 km

Roncesvalles to Zubiri  – 22 km

Zubiri to Pamplona – 21 km

On my first two days I  climbed up and over the Pyrenees past caramel coloured cows and herds of sheep with griffon vultures cruising overhead. The skies were clear as I climbed the first segment so I had expansive views over the beautiful green mountains. The scenery was spectacular, well worth the steep climb.

On the second day of the climb, it was like I was walking in the clouds. Not so thick that I couldn’t see the pilgrims in front of me and the mossy vibrant green landscape all around. The deep gentle sound of the cowbells was heard even if I couldn’t see the cows through the thick mist. It reminded me of dinner call at the cottage. I crossed the border to Spain, a simple gate with little fanfare, and then into beautiful beech forest shrouded in mist. The peak was 1450m. At the start of the descent I wove my way around the majestic cows. I arrived under sunny skies in Roncesvalles, essentially an old monastery complex.

The path exiting Roncesvalles led me through a tranquil and enchanting oak forest. The Forest of Witches. There were other beautiful thick forests on this segment so I walked mainly in shade. Villages with traditional basque houses with colourful wooden shutters were welcome and picturesque destinations on the Way. I stopped at a cafe in Viskarret overlooking the green hills for a good break and refreshing bowl of gazpacho.

I was glad for the rest as the final stretch into Zubiri was very steep and rocky. Relieved, I finally cross the 12th century bridge into Zubiri for the night. Zubiri is tiny. As I was looking for a place to eat I had the good fortune to link up with a welcoming couple from Colorado doing the same thing. Any tension from my challenging descent soon faded away in their good company.

The path to Pamplona followed alongside the Arga River so at times I was accompanied by the sound of water. There were some gentle ascents and descents but it was a much flatter walk than the previous days, going through forests and along a ridge of the mountain as I approached Pamplona. Good bye to the gentle sounds of birds and trickling water and hello to energetic urban scene. I have a rest day in Pamplona now to explore the scene.