Travel stories
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Misty Bevagna
Bevagna is special. It’s a rare medieval town located on the valley floor alongside the Topino river, rather than perched on a hilltop. Beyond the unique location my visit is special for several reasons. For starters, I feel like the only non-Italian tourist in Bevagna. I wander within its protective walls and peak around alleyways in relative tranquility. If there is chatter, it is only Italian. My walk to Bevagna is lovely. After descending from the clouds high atop Montefalco, most of my 11 km walk is on flat terrain in glorious sunshine. My first view of Bevagna is under a brilliant blue sky. Soon after entering the walls I…
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Into the Umbrian countryside in Montefalco
Patrizia is waiting to greet me on the platform of the train station in Foligno, about 40 km from Perugia. She’s holding hands with a little boy, her grandson, and smiles at me warmly, “Andrea?” Her daughter Guilia is waiting in the car. Her youngest son is sleeping soundly in his car seat. It certainly is a family run business! The two women operate Italian Delights. They have organized the self-guided walking tour I will be doing over the next 6 nights in Umbria. With the five of us tucked in the car, Guilia drives us out of Foligno and into the Umbrian countryside. We are soon winding up a…
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My introduction to Umbria in Perugia
It’s an adventure to arrive in Perugia. Three hours north of Rome, Perugia is the capital of Umbria. I arrive by train, and though the train station is only 1.6 km from the historic centre, it’s not a distance to attempt by foot. The hostess at the hotel tells me when guests arrive by foot they are not happy. It’s a steep, steep, climb. Thankfully I had read about Perugia’s impressive hilltop location. I did not attempt the walk. I took the MiniMetró. This public transport system is as cute as it sounds. My best description is a gondola car on a rollercoaster track. The car does not zip along…
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Holiday traditions
My living room is decked out for the holidays all Hyggelig (remember the Danish concept of cosy contentedness?). Many of the same ornaments adorn our home year after year, including my retro 1970s reindeers, one of my grandmother’s hand-stitched stockings and my daughter’s crafts from when she was little. I enjoy these familiar traditions. Though it’s also fun to learn new ones. Which brings me to a popular Spanish tradition. La Lotería de Navidad or the Christmas Lottery. I happened upon this tradition in Madrid this October. I noticed a long line of people winding around a block in the Puerta del Sol area. They were waiting patiently, not for…
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A souvenir from Segovia
When I return from a trip my Mom asks me the same question: “Don’t you get lonely eating alone?” It’s true, eating can be a social activity. That is the essence of going out for tapas, or tapeo, in Spain. It’s a communal experience. You share plates with your friends and family. Thankfully a tapas tour allows a solo traveller to get a taste of this tradition with borrowed friends for an evening. The photos below are from my fun tapas and flamenco tour in Madrid with Isabel from Devour Tours. Tapas aside, my Mom’s question is not about sharing food, but sharing a table at a restaurant. In truth,…
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Climbing the medieval wall of Ávila
I arrived late in the day in Ávila. The medieval walled town was a short train ride from Salamanca and I planned to stay the night. My tardy arrival meant it was too late to climb the wall. Plus, I left my climbing rope, helmet and carabiners at home. I jest. Nowadays, the gates are always open in Ávila. I entered through one of the 9 openings in the thick stone wall. You don’t enter by tossing a rope over the wall and hoisting yourself up. It’s 12 metre high. Surely that can’t be safe? Would you even be allowed to scale a 12th century wall? All good questions. One…
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The underground of Salamanca
My tour guide Maria pulls a set of keys from her pocket. We’ve walk up to an iron gate. It’s about 8 pm. There is only a trace of indigo in the sky. She opens the gate and the three of us walk through. We are in an open area surrounded by stone walls, but it’s hard to see anything in the darkness. Maria opens a metal panel on the wall and I hear some clicks. Nothing happens. The other woman on the tour, Juana from Seville, shines her iphone flashlight at the panel. Maria tries another switch and the lights go on. Olé! I still have no idea where…
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Spotting frogs and astronauts in Salamanca
It was Saturday afternoon. The entrance to Salamanca’s University was packed. Packed with tour groups like the one I was in and other visitors craning their necks to inspect the detailed facade of the graceful stone building. The facade is a feast of mythical creatures, archbishops, kings and queens, busts and skulls, decorative foliage, coats of arms. It warrants a good inspection. It’s a fascinating scene. But there was something specific people were searching for. A frog. Una rana. The frog is considered a good luck charm. If, only if, you can spot it without assistance. It doesn’t count if you have help. Some hopeful students search for it before…
