Fiesta en Plaza del Jamón

I took a detour today. To the town of Jabugo. I knew nothing about Jabugo other than it was not far from Galaroza, where I was staying overnight. A doable short walk. All uphill.

I walk into town and the first thing I see is a Jamón processing plant. At the fork in the road I am presented with an option between an asphalt road or cobbled one typical of serrana villages. Down the cobble lane I go.

It’s quiet. Not just the serene peacefulness I am getting accustomed to in this rural area of cork trees and whitewashed villages lost in time. Barren streets type of quiet. No people. It’s Saturday early afternoon.

Finally I hear music. I smell wood fire. I wonder if there are roasted chestnuts. As I get closer the music gets louder. Then I hear the people. ALL the people of Jabugo it appears. I turn the corner to a huge fiesta in the central plaza: Plaza del Jamón.

Tents are set up with tables of food. Tupperware. Stew pots. This is a potluck. I spot at least 5 legs of Jamón at the ready to carve. People are sitting on plastic chairs around the tables or mingling by the tents. There are woodfires burning all around the square. Chorizo and meats grilling over the embers. It smells wonderful. A man is cooking a rice dish (I assume) in a huge paella pan.

Little kids run around with balloons tied to their wrists watching with glee as the balloon animals float behind them (generally sharks for the boys, unicorns for the girls). People are talking and laughing. Having a good time.

Is this a typical Saturday in Jabugo?

I approach a woman and ask, “Que es la fiesta?”  I don’t catch most of what she says (as usual with my limited Spanish) but I do understand this hubbub is a once a year occasion. It’s Jabugo’s autumn (otoño) festival. The one day I come, it’s a fiesta. Las fiestas de Las Candelas.

I don’t have an invitation to join any of the tents so I happily wander around soaking up the festivities. I feel fortunate to get a glimpse of a traditional village fiesta in the Sierra de Aracena. I notice the tents are printed with “Jabugo 2020”. Like events worldwide, in big cities or small towns, 2020 was skipped over. 

More reason to celebrate today.