La Lonja and other sights in Valencia

I don’t write about politics. This blog is a happy place.

Little did I know I would get a lesson on politics when I visited La Lonja de la Seda in the old quarter of Valencia. A lesson in the sense of a caution more than a teaching. I didn’t know what to expect when I stepped in the building my tour guide Valentin described as the “stock exchange of the silk trade”. That didn’t exactly stir my heart but he suggested the gothic landmark was worth a visit. In I went.

La Lonja was striking, in a stark and medieval way. The high vaulted stone ceiling and the delicate spiralled columns of the main hall were a surprise from the fortress like exterior. It was in this lofty space that merchants would gather to make business deals in the late 15th century. Commerce was booming. Gold letters etched along a band high above reminded them to conduct trade with honesty and respect.

The space was dark and moody. There was only a flicker of light from the medieval iron fixtures, and a tiny burst of colour from a single stain glass window in the chapel room. I hesitantly crept through a small doorway to the basement. It felt claustrophobic compared to the airy space on the main floor; I don’t want to know what business deals were conducted down there.

I was glad to leave the basement and step back outside. There was a lovely orange garden in the central courtyard. A welcome respite from the heavy stone. A staircase from this leafy courtyard led me to a most intriguing room on the first floor: La Sala Dourada or The Golden Hall.

The geometric tiled floor was dizzying but it was the golden ceiling that gave me pause.

I craned my neck to focus on the coffered ceiling. From my viewpoint on the floor it was hard to grasp the intricacies of the 670 pieces that interlocked to form the scene above. Thankfully there was a video projected on the wall explaining this medieval artwork that was constructed between 1418 and 1426. My neck was thankful too.

At its core it’s a battle of good versus evil. No different than Star Wars.

The beams and spaces in between are ornately decorated. These golden designs represented faraway lands, a reflection of the international trade route that connected the West with China. Looking at the end of a beam you see two sculptures. Take a closer look if you can. Each beam has its own unique set. This is where the tug of war between good and bad plays out.

On the bottom there are twisted snakes, gargoyles, and gruesome creatures. These ugly beasts represent greed, corruption, and abuse. Sitting on top are sculptures of men. They appear thoughtful and wise, sitting calmly, reading a book, looking inquisitive. They represent honesty, respect, and strength.

The opposing forces of good and bad.

But who was the intended audience of this lesson?

Only tourists shuffle about in The Golden Hall today. In fact, the ceiling was moved to La Lonja from another building (recovered from a fire in late 1800s). So you have to imagine this fantastical artwork in its original location in the 15th century when the city was a bustle from the riches of the silk trade. What business took place under its watchful eyes?

Government decision making. The ceiling was made for the municipal headquarters where the government of the day sat to make decisions.

The artwork, while elaborate and fantastical, is essentially a moral code of conduct.

Apparently little has changed since the 15th century. We humans need constant reminder to push aside the inner evil forces. Selfishness. Greed. Spite. The Dark Side. Rulers need constant reminder to better the public good, not themselves, or their friends, or the next election cycle.

But alas, I don’t write about politics. This blog is a happy place.

Let’s move on to some other sights in Valencia.

Valencia has much art nouveau architecture to admire (see the maritime district of El Cabanyal). In the city centre three masterpieces stand out.

Estación del Norte. Imagine arriving in Valencia in this majestic train station! Estación del Norte is still the city’s main train station, though high speed trains depart from the new Valencia-Joaquín station (that will eventually replace this one). For now, this modernist gem is a fully functioning train station. It also feels like a museum. A small room off to the side of the ticket counter is beautifully decorated in Trencadís (broken tile mosaics). It showcases traditional Valencia scenes, such as traditional dresses (called falleras) and rural houses (called barracas) from the vast farmland surrounding the city (known as La Huerta). I learned all this at the train station!

Mercado Central. This grandiose space has been the Valencia’s central food market since 1928. It’s huge. One of the largest markets in Europe at 8,000 square metres. The vibrant food stalls brimming with food go on and on with everything you would imagine a Spanish market to have: stacks of gorgeous produce from La Huerta, piles of olives, pickled items, fresh fish on ice, meats, oodles of cheese and plenty of hanging legs of jamón. I did not spend nearly enough time in this beautiful space mainly because I did my shopping closer to home at Mercado El Cabanyal. Not for lack of options!

Mercado Colón. A very different market, both in terms of its art nouveau style and its purpose. No longer a traditional food market, the food stalls have been replaced with cafés and restaurants. I went a couple times to enjoy a horchata. It’s a refreshing and healthy drink made from ground tiger nuts (called chufas). It’s a Valencian specialty. Served in specialized cafés called horchaterias. There are several other horchaterias throughout the city, but sipping this nutty drink in art nouveau style made it extra special.

Unlike tiny Mascarell with its surrounding walls intact, Valencia’s defensive walls were destroyed in the late 1800s. Of the 12 towers that once served as gateways through the walls, only 2 were saved from demolition: Torre Serrano and Torre Quart. The photos below are the former. Even though there is no trace of the ancient walls, the residents of Valencia still use them as a point of reference when describing the area “inside the walls” versus “outside the walls”.

I would have happily spent more time “inside the walls”. The area was lovely. There was so much to explore in its narrow streets and intimate plazas.

Smack dab in the centre was La Lonja. A splendid remnant from when the city of Valencia was thriving and flourishing in the 15th century. The activities of trade and commerce may have changed, but it still holds a lesson that applies today as much as it did then. May good government prevail.