Ramblings in Madrid

My evenings are reserved for vermut, my days for walking and exploring the streets of Madrid. I discover the neighborhoods (barrios) of Madrid are as varied as the vermut. 

I love the elegant streets of Las Letras (or the literary quarter) which is where some of Spain’s literary greats lived, such as Miguel de Cervantes and Lope de la Vega. There are quotes from these masters embedded in the streets. Meaningful and poetic no doubt. It’s a test for my high school Spanish. I do not pass! But I still enjoy stopping to read the words. Luckily my Spanish is good enough to ask for a table (una mesa) on the patio (en la terraza), which I do at the lovely Plaza de Santa Ana in this barrio.

The medieval streets of La Latina are packed with tapas bars (photo of Cava Baja on the left below). I wander through the neighborhood of Lavapies after a visit to Muséo Reina Sofia (famed for Picasso’s Guernica). This where I come across this stunning mural of lovers in an embrace.

The historic barrio of Las Austrias is a wonderful jumble of old streets, gorgeous architecture and narrow alleyways. It’s name comes from the Habsburg kings who ruled when this part of the city was developed (in the 1500s and 1600s). Though there are some crowded areas nearby, the barrio is full of delightfully quiet and empty streets (cover photo). Stepping onto a side street I feel like I am in a small town rather than the capital.

It’s in this barrio that I learn from my tour guide Jackie (Devour Tours) the best tapas restaurants “do one thing and do it really well!” Mesón de Champiñon is one such place. That’s right, they serve mushrooms! And they do them really well, sautéed with olive oil, oregano and stuffed with a piece of chorizo. You can watch them fry up these delicious button shrooms on the open grill (plancha). Later in the tour we sample another time worn tapa, gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp) at La Casa del Abuelo. The sizzling shrimp comes with nice crusty bread to mop up the delicious garlicky oil. Wash it down with a chato (small tumbler) of the somewhat sweet wine from the family’s vineyard. Yum.

Plaza de Ramales (below) has a hidden secret. What looks like stone benches is actually the outline of a church. When the church was torn down in 1810 the remains of Diego Velázquez where also lost. The famous court painter was believed to be buried in the crypt and was not removed before the church was demolished. The search continued for many years to no avail.

Below is pretty Plaza de Villa (literally the town square). Its charm lies in the time travel imbued in the three surrounding buildings, each constructed in a different century. The newest, built in the 17th century, was Madrid’s town hall from 1693 to 2007. The slanted roofs illustrate the Hapsburg style. The building in the middle is from the 16th century and older still is the 15th century structure, one of the oldest buildings in Madrid (it’s the building in the photo to the right below). Tucked beside this simple stone building is the delightfully narrow Calle del Codo. It leads you away from the crowds in the square. Like putting on earmuffs, cozied up in the quaint little street, the sounds of people and traffic get muffled out. Careful not to bump your elbows, it’s a tight squeeze!

The more secluded streets of Las Austrias run between the packed Plaza Major and the Royal Palace. No mistaking you are in the capital in these impressive spaces. Both are equipped with bronze statues of a man on horseback: father and son (King Phillip III and King Phillip IV).

The monument in Plaza Oriente (near the Palace) was an engineering feat at the time as the king (the son) wanted the horse standing on its two back legs. Galileo was called to help with the design. Hint: the tail is weighted.

Retiro Park is another one of those places in Madrid with a pleasing contrast of chaos and quietude. I stroll the massive park on a Sunday. It seems this is a typical pastime as everyone is out: joggers, young families with kiddies, couples arm in arm. The man-made lake in the middle is a sea of rowboats and is surrounded by busy cafes (and more monuments of men on horses!) As soon as I leave these crowded areas the leafy walkways are quiet. It’s peaceful. Birds chirping. The smell of autumn leaves. Chestnuts falling from the trees.

An open air exhibit presents the Biophere Reserves in Spain. I did not realize Spain has so many protected natural areas (compared to other European countries and Canada). It got me excited for my walking tour in the Sierra de Aracena!

I will end this quick tour of the barrios of Madrid at Puerta del Sol. I only walked through this central area one night, known as the Times Square of Madrid (with a huge Tio Pepe neon sign). I think this old saying sums up nicely the hubbub and comings and goings of this busy crossroads: “The news of events reach the Puerta del Sol, before the events have even happened.”

In addition to a monument of a king on a horse (King Charles III) there is a mosaic on the ground that denotes the symbolic centre of the Spain. Tradition says if you stand on it, you will return to Madrid someday.

I let myself get caught up in the hubbub.