Resting and Eating in Pamplona

The first thing I noticed in Pamplona was the energy. The buzz was positively simmering. Every time I stepped out of my hotel, it was like I was stepping into a party zone. Socializing, eating, drinking. Music.

One street in particular, Calle San Nicolas, was heaving. People spilled out of the bars. The chatter reverberated off the walls of the narrow street. The party vibe was full force at lunchtime and night. I soon discovered a similar frenzy in other northern cities along the Camino, but Pamplona was my first.

Pamplona was also my first encounter with pintxos! Or pinchos? No matter the spelling (it’s “pintxo” in the Basque language, where an x is pronounced like ch), these artfully displayed little snacks along the bartop will temp the taste buds. While tapas rein in the south, pintxos are the delectable bite of choice in the north. Another reason to love this culinary obsessed country.

Ordering is quite simple. Grab the bartender’s attention and point to a pintxo on display. Easy. Maybe point to a second. Easy peasy. They will be happy to supply details, if you ask. Keep in mind it’s snack sized, so it’s low commitment. I was under the impression that a pintxo was composed of a toasted piece of bread with a topping. My simple mind was blown away. 

The first bar I entered had a rather small display of pintxos at the bar. Instead the server handed me a menu. I ordered two – tender lamb in a pillowy soft brioche and slow poached cod in a tomato sauce. Stunned, I returned to the bar for a second round. She explained the pintxos at Bar Monasterio were “muy creativo”. Muy creativo and muy delicioso! I followed her suggestions for my next 2 pintxos – thinly sliced scallops in some delectable sauce I can’t describe and tasty shrimp dumplings. Incredible. No toasted bread in sight. Not that a toasted bread pintxo is ordinary. At Bar Iruñazarra, I was very satisfied with the pintxo of roasted pork and potatoes on toasted baguette held together with a toothpick. A toothpick is a common sight on a pincho: “pincho” comes from the verb “pinchar” which means “to pierce”. Try saying that three times in a row!

There is more to Pamplona than pintxos. I had a full day of touring despite trying to rest my legs. Actually I felt lucky not to have any ailments from my first four days of walking. If I did need something, like tape for fatigued muscles or blister bandages, Pamplona had a store dedicated to all things pilgrims might need. Pilgrims may not be the main visitors to this vibrant city with much to offer, but still, are very well supported. The Camino takes pilgrims into the city through an ancient gate (Portal de Francia) that feels like a drawbridge and crosses right through the historic centre on Calle Mayor.

I ended my day at a “pilgrims meet-up”. We met at the tourist office where a volunteer (the Camino has many friends) provided us with some historical context on Pamplona (the city was created when 3 warring cities tore down their walls and joined forces) and led us to some sights. In Plaza Consistorial, she pointed out the markers on the ground where the wooden barriers are erected for the San Fermin festival every July. Barriers to keep the spectators out of harm’s way as the bulls rumble through the streets. 

Our last stop was the gothic Iglesia de San Saturnino. In a back room, she showed us an almost hidden image of the Virgen of the Camino. It’s only through the camera’s lens that the colourful image comes into focus.

It was a good full day in Pamplona. But it was still early when the “meet-up” concluded and I wasn’t quite good and full. Easy fix in Pamplona! Over to Bar Monasterio I went for a few more pintxos. I was well rested and well fed for my walk the next day.