Spello on my mind

Spello, Spello.

I feel like I visit this charming hilltop town twice: in person and in my mind. 

After my walk from Bevagna (14.5 km) I spend two nights in Spello. I explore the cobbled lanes of this rosy-hued town that cascades down the hill. I visit churches, see incredible Roman mosaics from an ancient villa, buy handcrafted items (necklace, cards) in small shops and eat amazing food (including a glorious lasagna with delicate sheets of pasta and a savoury ragú).

That’s my first visit.

I revisit the beautiful town, at home, as I read Michelle Damiani’s book Il Bel Centro. The author, an American from Virginia, chronicles her year living in Spello with her family. With her eloquent descriptions I can once again roam the steep alleyways. Or sip wine in one of her favourite haunts.

When she talks about her visits to Vinosofia, I can picture the delightful wine bar with shelves of wine and stacks of books (including hers). I can relive my own experience with the convivial owner, Graziano. After my meagre attempt with Italian he switches to impeccable English. He pours me a crisp white wine. He explains it’s made from Grigata grapes grown on the other side of the valley near Todi. We talk amicably about the area and he encourages me to visit his hometown Foligno. To accompany my wine Graziano serves me two toasted pieces of bread with a generous pour of Olio Nuovo. “New” in this case means the olives were pressed October 2. Mere weeks ago.

Michelle’s descriptions of Spello may be evocative but it cannot replace the aroma of that gorgeous olio nuovo. The fragrance was so fresh and grassy. Thinking about it now, I wish I had shipped a canister home! But on other occasions her words resonate and I can imagine myself walking under stone arches in the narrow lanes and peaking into the wonderful family run shops that form the fabric of the town. In my mind, I can once again walk the Roman aqueduct among the olive groves and admire the Pinturicchio frescos in the church Santa Maria Maggiore.

From her book, I learn more about this town and its residents who generously share their traditions with her expat family. Her year long experience follows the seasons and the many baked goods unique to each holiday. In spring, poppies and wildflowers speckle the olive groves. In summer, the plethora of flower pots hanging off railings and window ledges overflow with blooms in this flower obsessed town.

There are delights in every season. I love her advice when she is asked when to visit Spello. “Whenever you can.” I am very happy with my holiday time visit. I am rewarded with shining stars and fairy lights, the smoky scent of wood fire and mossy nativity scenes on stone ledges. The gorgeous Olio Nuovo is a seasonal delight I am grateful to experience.

Spello boasts a clear view to Assisi. At night I can even see a red glow from Assisi’s Christmas light display. As with each Umbrian town I visit, Spello offers me another insight into Saint Francis: his love of nature and this very valley. Shortly after leaving Spello I encounter this quote from the Saint as I gaze out across the beautiful valley he revered. 

I have seen nothing more beautiful than my Spoleto valley

Niente di piu bello ho visto della mia valle Spoletana, San Francesco

From there, I walk with the view of the valley on my left. I pass olive groves, vineyards and country homes. It’s a pleasant walk (10.5 km) to my last stop: Assisi.