“The universal language in Bilbao is eating and drinking,” my guide Sylvia said. Our group gave an appreciative chuckle. We were in Plaza Nueva in the heart of the old town (Casco Viejo). The neo-classical square is full of bars and restaurants tucked into the colonnades. It’s lively any time of day but especially at lunch and dinner. The main building on Plaza Nueva is the academy (Euskaltzaindia) that researches and protects the Basque language Euskara. The origins of this pre-European language are unknown. For generations it was passed down orally. Now children learn Euskara in public school. Curiously you don’t hear it spoken much in Bilbao compared to elsewhere…