The scallop shell: a symbol of the Camino de Santiago

On my last visit to Spain I was fortunate to visit Casa de las Conchas in Salamanca. The facade of this unique building is decorated with 300 scallop shells. The house was built by a knight of the order of Santiago. These knights protected pilgrims walking the long journey to northwestern Spain to pay homage to Santiago (Saint James).

The pilgrimage dates from medieval times. Around 813, the legend is a hermit Pelayo followed a trail of stars into a field and discovered the burial place of Saint James, one of the first disciples of Jesus Christ. News of the discovery spread. People from across Europe began to walk to Galicia to pay their respects.

The site of the discovery became known as Santiago de Compostela (in Latin Campus Stellae means field of the star). After many repairs to the original chapel that housed the remains of the Saint, construction on the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela began in 1075. With a new cathedral the “golden age” of the Camino took hold. During this time (12th and 13th century) the number of pilgrims grew and many pilgrims hospices, roads, bridges, and hospitals were built to give them safer passage.

Medieval pilgrims often carried a scallop shell. It was both symbolic, as well as practical, as it could be used as a cup or bowl. The shell, with its many radiating lines from a central point, can also represent the different routes leading to Santiago de Compostela. There is a network of ancient routes. The most popular is the Camino Frances that begins over the border in France. The Camino Primitivo, starting in Oviedo, refers to the route taken in the 9th century by King Alfonso II, known as the first pilgrim.

Salamanca is a stop on the Via de la Plata route which starts in Sevilla. Casa de las Conchas is a striking tribute to this pilgrimage. Even from above you can see the distinctive scallop shells molded on the facade. I climbed the Torres de la Clericia for spectacular views of Salamanca. I also enjoyed walking between the two towers like you’re walking on the outside of the building (with a handrail!).

After the Middle Ages the number of pilgrims declined until a modern day resurgence. Gone are knights as protectors. Present are yellow arrows and plenty of amenities. Better footwear and high tech gear. But much is the same. Walk the Camino and you traverse the same paths and bridges as in medieval times. Many of the churches, monasteries and castles remain.

Pilgrims have never stopped arriving in Santiago de Compostela.

And the scallop shell still marks the way.