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Granada anytime
“Have you been to Granada before?” I was asked this question several times. It’s true I had visited Granada in 1992, but it was so long ago I always hesitated with my response, as if there was a statute of limitations on my memories. I have some recollection of my host but not of the city itself. It felt easier and more realistic to provide the same response as my husband who was travelling with me: “No, first time.” On arrival, the train station certainly didn’t feel familiar. Nor did any of the plazas or streets. I could see the Alhambra from many stunning viewpoints, but had I truly seen…
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Camino de Santiago: Arrived at Santiago de Compostela
There is a lovely fluidity to days on the Camino. This was the case right up to my last walking day. O’Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela – 20.1 km I met new people (Irish and Italian), hopscotched along to the same café breaks as my Japanese friend (as if there was a homing device in our bracelets) and the gathering of pilgrim friends in Plaza del Obradoiro was absolutely delightful as we discovered connections between us that we did not realize. But of course, we were all connected. I had a smile on my face all day. Thrilled, happy, and grateful to have arrived at Santiago de Compostela.
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Camino de Santiago: Final days in Galicia
Take a step on the way and you are immersed in a stream of pilgrims heading westward. You meet the people you’re meant to meet. I met some more ‘philosophical’ pilgrims in these stages compelling me to ponder the meaning of a lost journal, a chance encounter, or asking questions like “what is your favourite Camino saying?” The first one that comes to mind is “The true way begins when the Camino ends.” A close second is “the Camino provides.” In these final days I felt lucky the Camino provided me with new pilgrim friends and a delightfully cosy albergue nestled in the woods. Palas de Rei to Melide –…
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Camino de Santiago: Into Galicia
I reached the 100 km mark in these stages. 100 km to go! The Camino offers up new physical challenges and good advice from a pilgrim friend how to accept and release pain (it is only temporary). As we near Santiago some reflections with other pilgrims on Camino lessons to take home. Las Herrerías to Fonfría – 20.1 km Fonfría to Sarria – 28 km Sarria to Portomarín – 22.7 km Portomarín to Palas de Rei – 24.6 km It was back into the mountains leaving Las Herrerías. A good morning climb up to O’Cebriero. Stopped in La Faba for a fresh avocado and tomato toast and orange juice at…
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Camino de Santiago: El Bierzo
The Camino is well travelled. A fellow pilgrim is often in sight. Sometimes it’s nice to have companionship, time flies by with a good conversation, which happened on my days in El Bierzo region. Other times you need encouragement. Support. This was the case on my walk into Villafranca del Bierzo. The following thought came to mind (not for the first time): Thank goodness I am not doing the Camino alone. Ponferrada to Villafranco del Bierzo – 24.2 km Villafranco del Bierzo to Las Herrerías – 20.7 km Looking behind as I was leaving Ponferrada I could see the mountains I climbed over. I entered the wine region El Bierzo. I…
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Camino de Santiago: Cruz de Ferro
Walking the Camino is a physical challenge. I felt this exertion in my body in these stages. The Camino also grants you time to work through life’s challenges, like how to let go. Astorga to Rabanal del Camino – 20.6 km Rabanal del Camino to Acebo -16.5 km Acebo to Ponferrada – 15 km Out of Astorga and into different terrain. Sweet smelling too. Thyme, lavender, lilacs and a scent reminding me of watermelons. I also started to see Camino markers with the Knights of Templar symbol, a red cross. Leisurely stop at pretty Santa Carolina de Samoza. Chose a sunny spot outdoors, Shania Twain playing on the radio. Started out…
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Camino de Santiago: Leaving León
The walking and the pilgrim community are a huge part of the Camino experience. On top of this the days take place in Spain! I feel fortunate to see and experience unique Spanish traditions along the way: city celebrations, brilliant stain glass, Gaudi architecture, shepherds herding sheep, fresh squeezed OJ… León free day León to San Martin del Camino – 26 km San Martin del Camino to Astorga – 23.8 km I had no idea of the stain glass that awaited inside León Cathedral. Stepping inside the dark gothic cathedral it’s almost shocking to see all the bright coloured windows. I particularly liked the leafy motives of vines and other…
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Camino de Santiago: Into León
There is a certain routine to days on the Camino starting with an early rise and ending with laundry and checking the route map for the following day. Basic tasks aside, each day is shaped differently. You don’t know exactly how it will go when you take your first step in the morning. What you see, who you meet, how you feel…this happens as you go. Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero – 19 km El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas – 19.3 Mansilla de Mulas to León – 18.1 km Route out of Sahagún was not particularly well marked; I waved at a passing car with a quizzical…