Camino de Santiago: Cruz de Ferro

Walking the Camino is a physical challenge. Felt this exertion in my body in these stages. Camino also grants you time to work through life’s challenges, like how to let go.

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino – 20.6 km

Rabanal del Camino to Acebo -16.5 km

Acebo to Ponferrada – 15 km

Out of Astorga and into different terrain. Sweet smelling too. Thyme, lavender, lilacs and a scent reminding me of watermelons. Also started to see Camino markers with the Knights of Templar symbol, a red cross.

Leisurely stop at pretty Santa Carolina de Samoza. Choose a sunny spot outdoors, Shania Twain playing on the radio. Started out on my own but table filled with pilgrim friends. A man from the UK told us he’s walked 17 Caminos! 10 were the French way. For scenic and spiritual reasons his favourite stretch was from Astorga to Sarria, which we’d just entered. He valued the ritual at the Cruz de Ferro (the Iron Cross) of leaving a stone representing a burden or something to let go of. What do I want to leave behind? With the Cruz de Ferro the next day, I had something to ponder on my walk to Rabanal del Camino.

Beautiful scenery, blossoms and flowers abundant. My friend from Belgium pointed out wild orchids. The hills and low stone walls reminded her of the Aubraque region, a picturesque section of the Way through France (starting at Le Puy). Snow capped mountains in the distance.

Rabanal del Camino was a town well-equipped with pilgrim services. Multiple shops selling anything you need. My posada was also equipped with a small library; picked out a book on Ikigai for some bedtime reading.

In the evening the Benedictine monks from the Monastery San Salvador led Gregorian chants in the rustic 12th century church. Latin chants, guides available with translated verses. As the sound of our voices echoed through the ancient space, I was struck how people from around the world were gathered together, trying something new, outside our comfort zone. Afterwards I chatted with a pilgrim from Germany who on a whim decided to stay at the Monastery for 2 nights. She had simply stopped by for a stamp and got talking to a monk. “My plans changed,” she said.

Glorious mountain scenery the next day. Hillsides carpeted in purple blossomed shrubs.

Peaceful climb up to Cruz de Ferro. It was one of those moments where I was happy to walk alone as I considered the ritual of leaving the stone I brought from home (and decorated lovingly by my family). I decided the day prior what I wanted to ‘leave behind’, but how to let go was more challenging to figure out. More challenging than the steady climb through trees and over little streams of flowing water.

In Marjorin a caravan appeared amongst the wild terrain. The owners live in a casita on the spot. The woman, Sol, told me pilgrims kept stopping to ask if they had food or water so she figured it was a good spot for a caravan. It had not been their plan. Opened three years ago and it mostly remains a surprise as it’s not yet on maps or guidebooks. Sorpresa!

Lovely walk across the mountainside before a tough descent. Very rocky, glad to have my poles. And glad to commiserate with other pilgrims as we took it nice and slow down the rocks to save our knees. Brazilian quartet whistling Dire Straights.

I was absolutely delighted to finally see the tiny village of Acebo, my stop for the night. My legs and feet were relieved. Interesting dinner at the Albergue with an American walking the Camino in reverse; he’s walked too many pilgrimages to list, but a highlight was the Shikoko (88 temples) in Japan. Great location to see the sunset perched on the mountainside.

The walk leaving Acebo was stunning. I was in heaven – fragrant white blossoms, yellow blooms and lots of lavender. Rugged and wild terrain.

Down into a gorge, thick in trees, rushing water, similar feel as cottage landscape but then I came across a grove of ancient chestnut trees, it’s Spain!

The village of Riego de Ambros, with scent of wood fire, was a particularly picturesque village part way down the mountain.

Descent ended at Molinaseca where I stopped for a short break. Leaving the town I passed a Camino marker in Japanese and then walked with a pilgrim from Japan (who I met at the Cruz de Ferro the previous day). She was in a similar situation as me, having walked Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Burgos in the Fall and restarting in Burgos at the beginning of April. The pale purple wisteria (or fuji in Japanese) was abundant.

Approach into Ponferrada seemed to take a circuitous route around the city; finally crossed a medieval bridge into the centre and after more climbing rounded a corner to find the storybook Templar Castle. It makes an impact. Later in the afternoon I returned to visit the castle. My tour was made better as I had company, a pilgrim from Hungary entering at the same time. We both knew little about the mysterious order of Templar Knights (research for later) but the setting sparked a conversation on a topic we were both more familiar with, Game of Thrones.

Three terrific days in the mountains of León. Sometimes I have pause and think “Wow, I’m walking across Spain!” That’s 283 km walked now.