The Basilica of Covadonga appeared magically in the mountains. “It reminds me of Harry Potter”, Julián said. In a mountain landscape of stone huts the two soaring spires of the rose hued church was a Hogwarts-like surprise. As enchanting as the Basilica was, the church within a cave was even more beguiling. Covadonga was the site of an important battle against the Moors in 722. The Moors swept through Spain in 711 but they never really got a stronghold in the north. The battle at Covadonga a mere 11 years later marked the start of the Catholic reconquest (which you may recall ended in 1492 at the Alhambra in Granada).…

It was a good workout hiking up a mountain. Heartbeat up, layers off. I was down to my T-shirt when I caught a glimpse of an elderly gentleman coming up behind us. He was dressed in a navy knit sweater, collared shirt and hiking pants. No backpack, no water bottle. His only accessory a palo, the wooden staff of shepherds. His stride soon matched ours and he started chatting with Julián like old friends. Luciano, or Lucio for short, was 75 years young. An ankle injury was forcing him to walk a slower than usual pace. In a deep gravelly voice he tells us he’s going to check on his…

“Un mar de nubes,” remarked Julián, my exuberant guide. A sea of clouds. The fluffy white clouds hung around us. It was my first day in the national park Picos de Europa. Were were surrounded by peaks, we just couldn’t see them. The starting point for our walk, Sotres, was the highest village in Asturias at over 1000 metres. The car ride to this village nestled in the mountains was one of those steep hairpin roads where you are glad you’re not driving so you can gawk at the views. From Sotres we hiked steadily up. As much as the clouds added to the mountain mystique, they were blocking our…