Travel stories
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The peaks of Picos de Europa
“Un mar de nubes,” remarked Julián, my exuberant guide. A sea of clouds. The fluffy white clouds hung around us. It was my first day in the national park Picos de Europa. Were were surrounded by peaks, we just couldn’t see them. The starting point for our walk, Sotres, was the highest village in Asturias at over 1000 metres. The car ride to this village nestled in the mountains was one of those steep hairpin roads where you are glad you’re not driving so you can gawk at the views. From Sotres we hiked steadily up. As much as the clouds added to the mountain mystique, they were blocking our…
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Un paseo, un poema y la sidra in Llanes
“Llanes es preciosa,” my Santander host Maria Rosa told me. I hadn’t planned to visit, but based on her enthusiasm for the Asturian city I decided to change my plans. It was good advice. Llanes was indeed preciosa. Absolutely lovely. My stay started with a very warm welcome. As I checked in to my hotel the host immediately pulled out a map to show me around his hometown. Pointing to Paseo San Pedro he said “You must go there.” So that’s where I started my tour of Llanes. Paseo San Pedro is a grassy promenade atop a cliff overlooking the sea. Stunning views were accompanied by the soothing sound of…
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Pretty towns and sweeping beaches in Cantabria
From Santander I headed west into Cantabria. I travelled by bus except for the last day. I very happily walked, and it was my favourite day of all. Santillana del Mar is a pretty little medieval town. Despite it’s name (del Mar) it is not on the sea. The first building I encountered was a convent. If a convent gate is open I always like to peak in. Why? To see if there are nuns cookies for sale. Sure enough I was rewarded with a tempting assortment of baked goods displayed on glass shelves. I debated the options with the help of a couple from Prague who came off the…
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La Bahía Santander
When I say I am going back to Spain it’s sometimes met with this response: “Don’t you want to go somewhere else?” Well, yes. Yet I am drawn back to Spain. There are 17 comunidades autónomas (similar to provinces) and each offers up its own traditions, landscape, climate, food, drink, and in some cases its own language. For me, returning is a nice combination of familiar Spanish traditions I happily anticipate (like vermut and fresh squeezed orange juice) and new customs to discover. Each trip I pick somewhere new to visit. On this latest trip I headed north. If you trace your way on a map from Madrid directly north,…
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Pilgrim statues on the Camino
Besides the yellow arrows and scallop shells connecting the days on the Camino, another familiar feature dotting the Way are pilgrim statues. These statues pop up all along the Camino. You may find one as you enter a village or take a pause in a plaza. They may greet you high atop a summit or next to a water fountain as you fill your bottle. I stopped to admire these works when I happened upon them. Some were whimsical, crafted from metal or reclaimed objects (such as those above from Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Sahagún). The bronze cast sculptures (such as those below) were particularly expressive. It was easy…
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A drinking fountain with personality
On a recent hot humid day, overheated from walking a few blocks in my neighborhood, an image popped into my head. Not of a water sprinkler to jump through, which would have been most welcome, but of a water fountain. A fountain I encountered in Paris. Or rather a fountain that encountered me. It got my attention before I even noticed it. This is the delightful side of Paris. Of beautiful things. Elegant things. Window displays that make your mouth water. And drinking fountains disguised in pretty designs. Functional and good looking. I was in Paris on a stifling hot day last September before heading to Saint Jean Pied de…
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Unpacking Camino lessons
I was hiking the Bruce Trail and was quickly reminded of my days on the Camino de Santiago. Scallop shells and yellow arrows were simply replaced by painted white trail blazes on the trees. If you go more than 20 meters without seeing one, you’re off track. I welcomed the familiar Camino feeling as I walked the familiar landscape of the Niagara Escarpment. Follow the markers, breath in nature, one step after another. My Camino experiences merge in many ways with life at home. I may have unloaded my backpack but the gifts offered up on this ancient pilgrimage need not end on the trail. Whether it’s walking in nature,…
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Granada anytime
“Have you been to Granada before?” I was asked this question several times. It’s true I had visited Granada in 1992, but it was so long ago I always hesitated with my response, as if there was a statute of limitations on my memories. I have some recollection of my host but not of the city itself. It felt easier and more realistic to provide the same response as my husband who was travelling with me: “No, first time.” On arrival, the train station certainly didn’t feel familiar. Nor did any of the plazas or streets. I could see the Alhambra from many stunning viewpoints, but had I truly seen…
