Travel stories
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Flowers and sweets in Cordoba
The cultural legacy of Cordoba is immense. It was once the Roman and Moorish capital of Spain and home of the Caliphate of Córdoba and its philosophers, poets and engineers. It’s a lot to take in. My brain needed a break from the history, as fascinating as it is, so on my second day I put aside the guidebook. Instead, I wandered without a plan (with a map, I am not that reckless!) A couple minutes from my hotel I saw the heavy wooden doors of Convento Santa Clara were open. I stepped into the peaceful courtyard. Rugged stones underfoot. I saw the sign for Dulces Artesanales. Nun’s cookies! I…
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Trails, trails and more trails
This could get addictive. Walking from village to village. Beautiful nature connecting the dots. A picturesque whitewashed hamlet as a destination to mark the kilometres travelled and to meander the timeless cobbled streets. But not for too long. The trails beckon. And so go my days in the Sierra de Aracena. Outside of the weekend, I hardly meet a soul. The sounds I hear are the birdsong, the tinkle of bells from goats and lambs, the tap tap of horses hooves, the cockadoodle of a rooster. Oink oink! Chestnuts crashing down. The wind rustling the leaves. The smells are a pleasant breeze from the city. The air is crisp. At…
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Fiesta en Plaza del Jamón
I took a detour today. To the town of Jabugo. I knew nothing about Jabugo other than it was not far from Galaroza, where I was staying overnight. A doable short walk. All uphill. I walk into town and the first thing I see is a Jamón processing plant. At the fork in the road I am presented with an option between an asphalt road or cobbled one typical of serrana villages. Down the cobble lane I go. It’s quiet. Not just the serene peacefulness I am getting accustomed to in this rural area of cork trees and whitewashed villages lost in time. Barren streets type of quiet. No people.…
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El Corcho
It’s 9:15 pm. I poke my head in the restaurant. “Está abierto?” I ask the server. “Si,” he replies not looking up from his phone. I had been waiting for the restaurant to open while having a drink on the other side of the small plaza with an English couple I met at my Posada. I give them a thumbs up before tucking inside. The floor of the restaurant is made of the same black and white cobblestones throughout the village. The rustic heavy door that separates the bar from the restaurant looks like something out of the Middle Ages with large metal bolts and hinges. A soccer game is…
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Cadiz by the sea
Cadiz feels like a seaside town. Jutting out into the ocean you are never far from water. It’s almost like an island. I could see from the train the narrow land passageway to enter the city, the sea within arms reach on both sides. The landscape was like a wetland in contrast to the dry arid land on the journey from Sevilla. This is sherry country as evident from the silhouettes of well known bodegas on the hilltops: Tio Pepe man and a classic bull (Osborne). Walking out the train station I immediately smelled the breezy sea air. The main square by the port is lined with palm trees. The buildings…
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Layers of a cake
The buildings in Sevilla are laced with ornate trim in warm shades of oranges and yellows and fancy iron balconies and light fixtures. It reminds me of a beautifully decorated cake. This is only one layer of the city. With the complex history of Sevilla I appreciated how my tour guide Maria (Devour Tours) simplified the narrative into bite sized pieces. She gave our small group this sweet history lesson while we were standing in front of two Roman columns. The original Roman columns, carved from a single piece of granite, were tucked into a recessed courtyard (like a hole in the ground) off the side of the street (ironically…
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Remembered moments
One of the first exercises I learned in a writing class was an exercise of memory: remembered moments. With a series of prompting questions I had to list as many details as I could to recreate the scene (for the class it was a childhood car trip). The more details the better: the people I was with, what I was wearing, any conversation or other sounds, the texture of my seat, my mood. The idea is to transport yourself back to that moment. For the exercise I could only close my eyes and do my best to recall these details, but a journal or a photo are a great help…
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Ramblings in Madrid
My evenings are reserved for vermut, my days for walking and exploring the streets of Madrid. I discover the neighborhoods (barrios) of Madrid are as varied as the vermut. I love the elegant streets of Las Letras (or the literary quarter) which is where some of Spain’s literary greats lived, such as Miguel de Cervantes and Lope de la Vega. There are quotes from these masters embedded in the streets. Meaningful and poetic no doubt. It’s a test for my high school Spanish. I do not pass! But I still enjoy stopping to read the words. Luckily my Spanish is good enough to ask for a table (una mesa) on…