Drinking in the ambience

I am sitting outside on a terrace as the sky turns deep blue. The sky darkens and the ornate sconces turn on, adding a soft glow to the weathered plaza. The air is warm. Church bells ring. A man walks his dog across the cobblestones. It’s quiet but for the animated chatter at the tables around me. At the table next to me sits a family with three little girls. Their three scooters, nestled together, are leaning on the table. It’s getting late.

Except this is Madrid. The night is young.

This scene seems to repeat every night. People of all ages come together for drinks, a tapa, a meal. It feels like everyone is out strolling the streets or sitting on a terrace. Three elderly woman have beers. Four friends share a plate of cheese and jamón. Families with kids take their dinner. Little kids run in circles in the plaza burning off energy.

Except this is Madrid. Does the energy ever fizzle out?

I happily sip my vermouth feeling fortunate to be here. I drink in the atmosphere. And savour my vermouth. It’s a warm welcome to Spain.

Vermouth is a traditional drink in Madrid. It’s a fortified wine that can be made with up to 100 botanicals. I have been told to look for vermut al grifo (on tap). It’s that popular. Plus recipes vary. The caramel coloured drink is a little sweet and fully herbaceous. It pairs perfectly with the lively terrace ambiance … and the thin salty potato chips and briny olives that are typically served with it. 

Taberna Real serves a vermut al grifo in short stubby glasses. It’s a traditional bar that gives you a taste of the Royal (Real) Palace with a replica of a sparkling chandelier from this regal residence. The legs of jamón hanging behind the large marble bar may be even more valuable at a thousand dollars each. In the Plaza Santa Ana where the statue of the Spanish poet Frederico Garcia Lorca stands (cover photo) my vermut is served with a slice of orange. At Taberna La Concha it’s dressed up in a martini glass with a spritz of gin and dash of Campari.

Over at Taberna Elisa the old tavern is beautifully decorated with blue and yellow tiles, copper lights and shelves full of old bottles. I watch the server pour my vermut from a shiny tap at the bar.

On every occasion the vermouth is delicious. Whether in an atmospheric bar or lively terrace. With salty chips or green olives. Adorned with a slice of orange or spritz of gin. It’s always a pleasing prelude to an evening out. Yummy every time.

No exception. This is Madrid.