Flowers and sweets in Cordoba

The cultural legacy of Cordoba is immense. It was once the Roman and Moorish capital of Spain and home of the Caliphate of Córdoba and its philosophers, poets and engineers. It’s a lot to take in. My brain needed a break from the history, as fascinating as it is, so on my second day I put aside the guidebook. Instead, I wandered without a plan (with a map, I am not that reckless!)

A couple minutes from my hotel I saw the heavy wooden doors of Convento Santa Clara were open. I stepped into the peaceful courtyard. Rugged stones underfoot. I saw the sign for Dulces Artesanales. Nun’s cookies! I learned about these sweets on my Devour Tours (in Madrid and Sevilla). The nun’s bake cookies and sell them to the public which helps support the convent. The purchasing process is unique as the nuns are cloistered. You put your money on a turnstile, the wheel turns, and you get your sweets (dulces).

I didn’t see the nun at all. Only heard her voice. From the menu posted on the wall (with photos) I ordered Corazones de vino. They remind me of digestive cookies, not too sweet, a tasty snack later that afternoon.

My next discovery came as I walked around the massive walled Mezquita Cathedral, through the narrow passageways of the Juderia (very picturesque but filled with souvenirs shops) and out the other side to the barrio San Basilio. This delightful neighborhood is known for the beautiful patios that are typical in Cordoba. These inner patios are behind ornate metal gates (called cancelas) but some owners open up their homes for curious visitors like me. I purchased a ticket that allowed me to access five patios. It was like a scavenger hunt searching up and down the cobbled streets for the open gates. 

Stepping into these patios you can feel how they provide a cool respite from the sun. It’s also clear the owners give their patios a lot of love. Every inch of the space is decorated.  Flowers pots climbing up the walls, staircases covered with pots or garden decor, lush greenery, fountains, old wells and washbasins, garden tools, ceramics and fun decor. They put a smile on my face. 

Beautiful patios filled with flowers. Delicious dulces. A sweet day in Cordoba.