Historic taverns in Madrid

On my recent visit to Madrid I was on the lookout for painted red doors and bronze plaques. These are markers of a historic Madrid tavern. Stepping into one of these classics is like stepping back in time. Back to another century.

Businesses over 100 years old, centenarios, are celebrated in Madrid with a decorative bronze plate on the ground at the entrance. It’s not only restaurants and taverns, there are also historic hotels, pharmacies, and shops selling shoes, capes and hats. There are around 150 of these centenarios in Madrid.

This could have turn into a prolonged treasure hunt, but I was mostly interested in the eating establishments. I tend to be more of an eater than shopper. Combining history with traditional food is an ideal combination.

The red door does not always go hand in hand with a centenario but it’s a good indication to have a closer look at the ground for a plaque. A bright red facade historically indicated the establishment served red wine (vino tinto), an easily identifiable marker for people who could not read. Many taverns have kept the red facade. Today it’s a distinctive feature of Madrid’s streetscape.

It’s not only red wine of course that is served at these historic taverns. The day I landed in Madrid, I ordered a café con leche at Vinos Sagasta 2 to perk up after my long flight. The old wine bar from 1880 felt maze-like as I walked through a series of small white tiled rooms connected through narrow doorways. My bewilderment might have been compounded by jet lag. Around the dark wooden tables were stools, rather than chairs, and hard benches lined the walls. The seating did not encourage lingering! (I did note they had a menú del día so you can have a full meal).

In contrast to the bright rooms at Vino Sagasta it took a few moments for my eyes to adjust when I stepped into the shadowy Bodega Ardosa. Faded photos covered the walls. Large wooden barrels served as high top tables. It’s drinks and tapas at this standing-only bar. I had a delicious slice of tortilla de patata (traditional Spanish omelette) and a vermut al grifo served in a short stubby glass. Behind the bar, stacks of shelves jammed with assorted bottles stretched up to the ceiling. I asked the server if the bottles have also been there since 1892. “El polvo tambien,” he joked. The dust too.

There was not a speck of dust on the bronze plaque outside. In fact it was the shiniest one I came across. It looked like they regularly give it a scrub.

Casa Ciriaco has been serving Madrileños since 1887. Tapas are served up front in the bar area, meals served in the cozy comedor (dining room). I settled in for lunch. Above the tiles on the lower half of the wall, the space was completely covered with framed paintings, sepia photos of clients and owners, old street scenes and newspaper accolades from decades past. I liked the framed manifesto outlining Casa Ciriaco’s high regard for gastronomy and eating well in life.

Eating is a Necessity, Knowing how to eat is an Art
The most delicious and least solemn of the doctrines, is gastronomy
Knowing how to eat is knowing how to live
Around a good table, problems are more easily solved, friendships are reaffirmed and strengthened
It is very important and beautiful that those moments are welcoming, pleasant and well appreciated

Framed sign at Casa Ciriaco (translated from Spanish)

Gastronomic traditions are taken seriously in this city. As if to illustrate the point, I noticed the table of three men, greying hair, having lunch beside me. They took their time to discuss the menu and decide on their orders “Ya, tenemos“. They were chatting amicably until the food arrived. Then the friends went silent. They focused on their plates. Taking their first bites I heard them discussing the food: “El sabor es…”

My plate of veal meatballs (albóndigas de tenera), a house speciality, was simple and delicious. So was the vermut. As I ate my meal I noticed more people heading through a narrow passageway at the back of the room. I asked my server if there was another room and he encouraged me to go have a look. Sure enough it led to a second comedor, a pleasant light filled space with stone walls and a high arched ceiling.

This was certainly a fun treasure hunt. These century old taverns are filled with far more than dusty bottles. Like living museums, they are brimming with historical artifacts, stories, and surprises. Made even better with fine food and drink.