Into the Umbrian countryside in Montefalco

Patrizia is waiting to greet me on the platform of the train station in Foligno, about 40 km from Perugia. She’s holding hands with a little boy, her grandson, and smiles at me warmly, “Andrea?” Her daughter Guilia is waiting in the car. Her youngest son is sleeping soundly in his car seat. It certainly is a family run business! The two women operate Italian Delights. They have organized the self-guided walking tour I will be doing over the next 6 nights in Umbria.

With the five of us tucked in the car, Guilia drives us out of Foligno and into the Umbrian countryside. We are soon winding up a hillside and passing vineyards and olive trees. Patrizia talks passionately about Umbria. She and her husband moved from busy Rome to green Umbria over 30 years ago. She asks me how I liked Perugia (I was most delighted) and tells me how there are more Umbrian art treasures than can be displayed publicly in the spacious gallery in the Palazzo di Priori.

She also talks with enthusiasm about the agriculture prowess of the region from olive oil to wine. Lucky for me, we are headed to the town of Montefalco, home of the popular red wine of Umbria, Montefalco Rosso. I learn from Patrizia this ruby red wine is a blend of Sangiovese and Sagrantino grapes. The more expensive Montefalco Sagrantino is made mostly of the Sagrantino grape. 

Guilia parks the car outside the medieval wall. From here, we walk. Patrizia is pleased to see that I travel light (her husband Pietro will be transferring my luggage from town to town). I follow mother, daughter, kids in tow, through the main gate of Montefalco and up the street to my hotel (suitably named Oro Rosso or “red gold” in reference to the Sagrantino grape). Patrizia greets the owner, Antonia, like an old friend. We are invited to sit in the dining room under the vaulted stone ceiling for my orientation.

Patrizia hands me maps and walking notes, a travel guide on Umbria, and few other thoughtful items for my walk.  She assures me I can contact her anytime. I feel very well taken care of as I say good bye to these two women who have welcomed me to their lovely corner of the world.

Now I am on my own. I head out in search of food, one of my favourite things to do when travelling. The restaurant I pick is also an olive oil shop. My server places a slice of bread doused with oil olive in front of me and announces “Olio Nuovo”. It’s fragrant and herbaceous. My soup of the day, chestnut soup with shaved truffles, is velvety and earthy and the strangozzi, a pasta made without eggs, is deliciously balanced with salty guanciale, sweet tomatoes and piquant arugula.

Montefalco is known as the “balcony of Umbria” for its dramatic hilltop location. The streets often end in a viewpoint where I enjoy a wonderful panorama of the vibrant green countryside. Like in Perugia, the streets are even more charming at dusk when the Christmas lights come on. I am also loving the scent of woodsmoke which adds to the holiday vibe of this small medieval town.

From Montefalco, I will walk to Bevagna, then Spello and end in Assisi, home of Saint Francis. But I don’t need to wait until Assisi to learn about this revered Saint from Umbria. In the church of San Francesco (constructed in the 1300s) I get my first lesson on the founder of the Franciscan Order. Like a story book, the frescos above the altar depict his life in panels from left to right.

The frescoes are bright and crisp. The story of Saint Francis is one of eschewing privilege and wealth to living a simple life dedicated to helping the poor and underprivileged. For the uninitiated like me, I need help to decipher the events of Saint Francis’ life. Thankfully there are several informational placards explaining many of the frescoes throughout the cavernous space. The placards are designed for kids; it’s the perfect introductory level for me! As the lone visitor I have ample time to sit unhurried and admire the artwork with my lesson “notes”.

It’s not only stories of Saints I learn about in this church. In the basement I find old winemaking equipment from the Middle Ages. Winemaking has a very long history in Montefalco and it started with the monks.

Back at the hotel, I enjoy a glass of Montefalco Rosso in the cosy stone dining room. My dinner is also delicious. The creamy lasagnette di Antonia with sausage and chestnuts is refined comfort food. It’s a good satisfying meal. I am ready to begin my walk in the morning. It starts with descending from the heights of Montefalco down to the valley floor and towards my next stop: Bevagna.