Camino de Santiago: Leaving León

The walking and the pilgrim community are a huge part of the Camino experience. On top of this the days take place in Spain! I feel fortunate to see and experience unique Spanish traditions along the way: city celebrations, brilliant stain glass, Gaudi architecture, shepherds herding sheep, fresh squeezed OJ…

León to San Martin del Camino – 26 km

San Martin del Camino to Astorga – 23.8 km

I had no idea of the stain glass that awaited inside León Cathedral. Stepping inside the dark gothic cathedral it’s almost shocking to see all the bright coloured windows. I particularly liked the leafy motives of vines and other vegetation.

The library at the museum San Isidoro was fascinating: 10,000 very old books, tattered and worn, some were massive, the length of my arm. “Que maravilla,” I overheard a Spanish couple say as they inspected intricate metalwork on a gilded silver chest from 11th century. “Es maravilloso”

Outside parades of huge flags from different cites congregated. Music, traditional dancing and speeches. No clue what it was (even after asking a couple people) but there was plenty of cheering and clapping. 

It was nice to have a day in León though I was eager to get walking the next day. On the way out of the city I passed by the beautiful San Marco parador, stonework stunning. The pilgrim sculpture, repose with eyes closed and shoes off, was one of my favourites so far. A cherished moment of rest.

Fortunately I walked out of León on Sunday as the industrial strip leaving the city was not busy. How I love the fresh orange juice in Spain! Savoured an especially fresh and large helping at Bar Virgen del Camino. Much of the trail then followed alongside a highway. Some interesting features: two story stork nests on a church, hobbit-like houses built into the earth, a cluster of trees full of raven nests and deep croaking of frogs from irrigation ditches.

I was delighted to find a bar open in Villadango del Páramo after a long and hot stretch. I was almost out of water; the woman at the bar filled my bottle and served me a free tapa of delicious rice. Met my third José today – that’s Valencia, Barcelona and Madrid.

In many towns I have been noticing groups of men playing cards late afternoon; the café in Albergue La Huella seemed to be the local spot in San Martin del Camino. After doing my laundry and showering I returned to the cafeteria and all tables were full. Cards games in progress.

A nice couple from Madrid invited me to join them for dinner. After touring the small town (nothing was open) they suggested visiting the neighbouring Albergue. Just as we sat down on the terrace, it was time for the evening sheep crossing! That was only the beginning of our special experience. The owner Patricia offered to make us dinner (even though the restaurant was not open) – individual Spanish tortillas (chorizo or queso) and a big salad with apples and tomatoes. She joined us for a drink and in quick fire Spanish regaled us with stories of high season, notably preparing a huge paella to serve seventy guests. That would be a sight!

Landscape started to change the next day on the walk to Astorga. Crossed the impressive 200 metre long medieval bridge at Hospital del Obrigo. It has 20 arches. After the town, a gentle ascent. A hint of the ascents to come. Bright blue skies, green fields, pine trees and red dirt path. Mostly a solitary walk except for the company of song – four Brazilians happily singing as they walked. Also, the most extensive donativo rest stop I had ever seen, a veritable buffet!

Before visiting the sights in Astorga I gobbled up a Hojaldre, a puff pastry concoction with sweet syrup, and promptly bought two more for the road. Beautiful stain glass at Palacio Gaudí and intricate stonework on facade of the cathedral. Fun and delicious communal meal at Albergue My Way. Discussion covered many topics from early morning packing strategies to dogs we miss at home. Relaxing evening lounging in the garden; as I write this post church bells chime for 9 o’clock – almost time for bed!