-
Early morning at the Pantheon
I am sent early to get in line before the crowds descend on the Pantheon. No more than a dozen people are ahead of me. While I look for my family, I cannot help but admire the Pantheon. This monument has seen so much history. The Pantheon, initially built in 27 B.C. and rebuilt around 120 A.D., was dedicated to all the Roman gods. It is built on a circular foundation and mostly made up of bricks with a concrete shell as a surface creating 20 feet thick walls. I cannot see the dome from where I stand. But I can see columns. There are sixteen of them. Each one…
-
Let’s talk about something concrete
While in Rome, I visited the Pantheon for the first time. It was a humbling experience walking into this 2000 years old monument that boasts the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world. The Romans are credited for inventing concrete, which allowed them to build their empire. As such, I want to talk about concrete before talking about the Pantheon. I will not be offended if you skip this post. It is a bit technical. But if you are interested, let’s make concrete. To make concrete, we first need to make cement. The process starts by collecting rocks. Not any type of rocks. We need limestone, which contains calcium carbonate,…
-
Aperitivo hour
A café-bar in Rome (and Italy) is multi-purpose. They serve the strong shots of coffee my husband so misses, but there’s more. These institutions transition from day to night. The fast efficient tempo of a caffè standing at the bar morphs into a relaxed pace in the evening. The clang of cup on saucer is replaced by the clink of ice and gentle fizz of Prosecco. The pastries are cleared out. It’s time for something salty: crispy chips or a soft panini with fresh cheese and tomatoes. You move from the bright light of the bar to the dusky evening as the sky turns indigo. You don’t stand, you sit. It’s time for…
-
A caffè in Roma
Buongiorno. Un caffè per favore. I picked up those Italian words pretty rapidly. The almost-tuxedo-dressed-server immediately puts a little saucer and a little spoon on the no-stool-bar countertop. He adds a container with sugar envelopes and a small glass of water. He turns around and moves toward the massive espresso machine. An instant later he puts a tiny-half-full espresso cup (or half-empty depending on your perspective of life) on the saucer. Are you kidding me? That’s all? I take the cup and taste the black liquid: hot and a little bitter. That’s yummy and waking me up! While I slowly drink the four-sip-maximum-caffè (caffè in Italy is an espresso here)…
-
The finale in Assisi
My walking trip ends in Assisi. I enter town beside the massive wooden doors of Porto Nuovo. Like the other medieval towns I visit, there are stony walls, charming cobbled laneways, archways and old buildings that look pleasingly lopsided. But this larger town feels different. As the most visited place in Umbria, it’s no surprise I see more people inside the gate. And plenty of touristy shops. But mostly I notice Christmas music. It’s pumping out of speakers along the street. 🎵 It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas, every where you go… I heard a surprising amount of Micheal Bublé during the holidays in Italy. In Assisi, it certainly…
-
Spello on my mind
Spello, Spello. I feel like I visit this charming hilltop town twice: in person and in my mind. After my walk from Bevagna (14.5 km) I spend two nights in Spello. I explore the cobbled lanes of this rosy-hued town that cascades down the hill. I visit churches, see incredible Roman mosaics from an ancient villa, buy handcrafted items (necklace, cards) in small shops and eat amazing food (including a glorious lasagna with delicate sheets of pasta and a savoury ragú). That’s my first visit. I revisit the beautiful town, at home, as I read Michelle Damiani’s book Il Bel Centro. The author, an American from Virginia, chronicles her year living…
-
Misty Bevagna
Bevagna is special. It’s a rare medieval town located on the valley floor alongside the Topino river, rather than perched on a hilltop. Beyond the unique location my visit is special for several reasons. For starters, I feel like the only non-Italian tourist in Bevagna. I wander within its protective walls and peak around alleyways in relative tranquility. If there is chatter, it is only Italian. My walk to Bevagna is lovely. After descending from the clouds high atop Montefalco, most of my 11 km walk is on flat terrain in glorious sunshine. My first view of Bevagna is under a brilliant blue sky. Soon after entering the walls I…
-
Into the Umbrian countryside in Montefalco
Patrizia is waiting to greet me on the platform of the train station in Foligno, about 40 km from Perugia. She’s holding hands with a little boy, her grandson, and smiles at me warmly, “Andrea?” Her daughter Guilia is waiting in the car. Her youngest son is sleeping soundly in his car seat. It certainly is a family run business! The two women operate Italian Delights. They have organized the self-guided walking tour I will be doing over the next 6 nights in Umbria. With the five of us tucked in the car, Guilia drives us out of Foligno and into the Umbrian countryside. We are soon winding up a…
