Savouring the ambience

I am sitting on a high speed train from Málaga to Madrid. Leaving the coast the train tunnels through the mountains and into the expansive countryside: white houses scattered on the hillsides, olive trees as far as I can see, stone walls crisscrossing the landscape.

In Málaga I visited the delightful Muséo Carmen Thyssen. The collection focuses on 19th Spanish art and Andalusia in particular. It was a nice way to see traditions I learned about (like the Sevilla April fair) and the places I visited (like Cadiz) during my trip, as depicted in the 19th century. As I stood in front of a large painting by a Spanish naturalist (simply called Landscape) I couldn’t help think how remarkably similar the landscape was to the scenery I walked through in Sierra de Aracena.

Now I am hurtling along at 299 km/hour through the landscape of Andalusia heading north to Madrid. I am definitely in the 21st century on Spain’s extensive high speed train network. The fields of solar panels and windmills cresting the hills are a good reminder too.

I wrote Ramblings in Madrid on my train journey from Madrid to Sevilla three weeks ago. Now I write my last post from Spain on the rails back to the capital city. (I will share more stories from home.) I do love travelling by train.

The journey takes less than 3 hours. The temperature drops at least 10 degrees. It finally feels like fall when I arrive in Madrid.

In my last two days I am staying in the Chamberí neighborhood. It’s north of the historic centre, out of the touristed areas. I used this Madrid Revealed guide and it was extremely helpful to navigate the city and find the local tapas places in the historic centre and out here in Chamberí.

I have a fantastic local tapas experience at Fide. Fresh seafood is on display behind the glass ready for grilling on la plancha. I tentatively order a cañita, a small glass of beer (smaller than a caña), and point to the scallops. The server tells me they are zamburiñas, a beautiful scallop from Galicia. Delicious. I am well satisfied yet my time in this brightly lite seafood bar is not over. What happens next is the type of experience I would only get in a local barrio outside the historic core. As I am paying my bill two gentlemen at the bar buy me another cañita. My attempts to refuse are ignored. The server is already pouring. They insist. I hold up my small glass, “Salud, gracias”. It is a nice excuse to linger in the bar and soak up the atmosphere. And since I am in Madrid my free beer comes with a free tapa! A nice hunk of a sharp manchego. Double delicious.

The elegant and leafy streets of Chamberí are lined with tapas restaurants, tavernas serving vermut al grifo, cafes, wine bars, Cervecerías (beer) and Marisquerías (classic seafood bars like Fide). There are innumerable small specialty shops: vintage clothing, shoe stores, used bookstores, artisanal chocolates, bakeries, Pastelería y Confitería (sweets), wine shops, corner stores, traditional shops that sell freshly prepared potato chips and pickled items, fruit and vegetable stands, and more. It’s fun to get a taste of living in this wonderful neighborhood.

The plazas (such as Plaza de Olavide below) are a meeting place for all: the elderly strolling, kids playing, friends meeting up, guitar player strumming, dogs playing catch.

It’s a lively scene. A common one I have encountered here in Spain. Welcoming spaces that draw you in. A comfortable open living room that encourages you to linger. Warm, energetic and absolutely wonderful.

Hasta Luego.