There is a certain routine to days on the Camino starting with an early rise and ending with laundry and checking the route map for the following day. Basic tasks aside, each day is shaped differently. You don’t know exactly how it will go when you take your first step in the morning. What you see, who you meet, how you feel…this happens as you go. Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero – 19 km El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas – 19.3 Mansilla de Mulas to León – 18.1 km Route out of Sahagún was not particularly well marked; I waved at a passing car with a quizzical…

The Camino is full of endings and beginnings, in many different ways. You meet pilgrims going through life transitions. You say Hola to new friends and then Adios. The rain ends and you begin to dry out. And you step across borders. Quite literally. In this first stretch to Frómista, I left the province of Burgos and entered the province of Palencia. Castrojeriz to Frómista – 24.9 km Frómista to Carrión de Los Condes -19.3 km Carrrión de Los Condes to Ledigos -23.4 km Ledigos to Sahagún – 15.9 km Other than an early morning climb up and over a small hill leaving Castrojeriz, it was a totally flat walk.…

Not sure if it was nerves or excitement in my stomach as I left my hotel in Burgos but as soon as I found the Camino my stomach calmed. I stepped onto Calle San Juan, walked under the archway, and I was at peace. It felt good to be walking again with my only task to follow the scallop shells and see how the day unfolds. Burgos to Hornillos del Camino – 21 km Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz – 20.1 km Beautiful first day walking out of Burgos and into the countryside. It rained heavily the week prior so nature around me was well watered. Vibrant green. I discovered…

I am in Burgos to start walking the Camino from where I left off. I had a short stop in Madrid, stocked up on snacks and was warmed by the hospitality and Rioja wine at Cervecería Pepe. A warm embrace. I am feeling very fortunate to slip back into the Spanish way of living, and back onto the Camino. I even received my first “Buen Camino” as I checked out of my Madrid hotel with my loaded backpack and Camino necklace (with the shell crafted from iron) around my neck. When I was walking in September a woman running a rest stop shared this advice with me: Disfrutar de la…

Burgos was my last stop on the Camino de Santiago. Due a case of food poisoning I didn’t walk the 26 km into Burgos. These things happen on a long distance walk and you make adjustments. I took a taxi instead. Besides, I was very happy with the 260 km I did walk (about one third of the French way). There were advantages to the drive, namely Rueben, my taxi driver from Burgos. It was like he gave me a guided tour on the 25 minute ride. I learned so much about Burgos, from the industries (there are many from auto parts to cosmetics), the mystery of the parched sunflower…

My second rest day walking the Camino was in Logroño. I arrived on September 21, the main day of a week long wine harvest festival (fiesta de la vendemia) called San Mateo. I had a day and half to enjoy the festivities. A small amount of time, certainly, but enough to get a sense that “wine harvest festival” didn’t totally capture the spirit of what I saw. I thought I might see people stomping on grapes (the gentleman at the information office hinted at that). I did not. I saw wine. Yes. Tasted wine. Absolutely. But that’s a typical day in Rioja, and most anywhere in Spain. So what did…

The first thing I noticed in Pamplona was the energy. The buzz was positively simmering. Every time I stepped out of my hotel, it was like I was stepping into a party zone. Socializing, eating, drinking. Music. One street in particular, Calle San Nicolas, was heaving. People spilled out of the bars. The chatter reverberated off the walls of the narrow street. The party vibe was full force at lunchtime and night. I soon discovered a similar frenzy in other northern cities along the Camino, but Pamplona was my first. Pamplona was also my first encounter with pintxos! Or pinchos? No matter the spelling (it’s “pintxo” in the Basque language, where…