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Camino de Santiago: Cruz de Ferro
Walking the Camino is a physical challenge. I felt this exertion in my body in these stages. The Camino also grants you time to work through life’s challenges, like how to let go. Astorga to Rabanal del Camino – 20.6 km Rabanal del Camino to Acebo -16.5 km Acebo to Ponferrada – 15 km Out of Astorga and into different terrain. Sweet smelling too. Thyme, lavender, lilacs and a scent reminding me of watermelons. I also started to see Camino markers with the Knights of Templar symbol, a red cross. Leisurely stop at pretty Santa Carolina de Samoza. Chose a sunny spot outdoors, Shania Twain playing on the radio. Started out…
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Camino de Santiago: Leaving León
The walking and the pilgrim community are a huge part of the Camino experience. On top of this the days take place in Spain! I feel fortunate to see and experience unique Spanish traditions along the way: city celebrations, brilliant stain glass, Gaudi architecture, shepherds herding sheep, fresh squeezed OJ… León free day León to San Martin del Camino – 26 km San Martin del Camino to Astorga – 23.8 km I had no idea of the stain glass that awaited inside León Cathedral. Stepping inside the dark gothic cathedral it’s almost shocking to see all the bright coloured windows. I particularly liked the leafy motives of vines and other…
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Camino de Santiago: Into León
There is a certain routine to days on the Camino starting with an early rise and ending with laundry and checking the route map for the following day. Basic tasks aside, each day is shaped differently. You don’t know exactly how it will go when you take your first step in the morning. What you see, who you meet, how you feel…this happens as you go. Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero – 19 km El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas – 19.3 Mansilla de Mulas to León – 18.1 km Route out of Sahagún was not particularly well marked; I waved at a passing car with a quizzical…
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Camino de Santiago: Palencia
The Camino is full of endings and beginnings, in many different ways. You meet pilgrims going through life transitions. You say Hola to new friends and then Adios. The rain ends and you begin to dry out. And you step across borders. Quite literally. In this first stretch to Frómista, I left the province of Burgos and entered the province of Palencia. Castrojeriz to Frómista – 24.9 km Frómista to Carrión de Los Condes -19.3 km Carrrión de Los Condes to Ledigos -23.4 km Ledigos to Sahagún – 15.9 km Other than an early morning climb up and over a small hill leaving Castrojeriz, it was a totally flat walk.…
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Camino de Santiago: Leaving Burgos
Not sure if it was nerves or excitement in my stomach as I left my hotel in Burgos but as soon as I found the Camino my stomach calmed. I stepped onto Calle San Juan, walked under the archway, and I was at peace. It felt good to be walking again with my only task to follow the scallop shells and see how the day unfolds. Burgos to Hornillos del Camino – 21 km Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz – 20.1 km Beautiful first day walking out of Burgos and into the countryside. It rained heavily the week prior so nature around me was well watered. Vibrant green. I discovered…
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Camino de Santiago: Disfrutar de la energía
I am in Burgos to start walking the Camino from where I left off. I had a short stop in Madrid, stocked up on snacks and was warmed by the hospitality and Rioja wine at Cervecería Pepe. A warm embrace. I am feeling very fortunate to slip back into the Spanish way of living, and back onto the Camino. I even received my first “Buen Camino” as I checked out of my Madrid hotel with my loaded backpack and Camino necklace (with the shell crafted from iron) around my neck. When I was walking in September a woman running a rest stop shared this advice with me: Disfrutar de la…
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A fine ending in Burgos
Burgos was my last stop on the Camino de Santiago. Due a case of food poisoning I didn’t walk the 26 km into Burgos. These things happen on a long distance walk and you make adjustments. I took a taxi instead. Besides, I was very happy with the 260 km I did walk (about one third of the French way). There were advantages to the drive, namely Rueben, my taxi driver from Burgos. It was like he gave me a guided tour on the 25 minute ride. I learned so much about Burgos, from the industries (there are many from auto parts to cosmetics), the mystery of the parched sunflower…
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San Mateo festival in Logroño
My second rest day walking the Camino was in Logroño. I arrived on September 21, the main day of a week long wine harvest festival (fiesta de la vendemia) called San Mateo. I had a day and half to enjoy the festivities. A small amount of time, certainly, but enough to get a sense that “wine harvest festival” didn’t totally capture the spirit of what I saw. I thought I might see people stomping on grapes (the gentleman at the information office hinted at that). I did not. I saw wine. Yes. Tasted wine. Absolutely. But that’s a typical day in Rioja, and most anywhere in Spain. So what did…