-
Camino de Santiago: Grapes, wine and sunflowers in Rioja
Rioja is beautiful. A small region with big landscapes, and of course, big wines. I walked across it 3 short days. It could certainly be done in 2 but I was glad to extend my stay. The days were over far too fast. Logroño to Navarette – 13 km Navarette to Najéra – 16 km Najéra to Santo Domingo de la Calzada – 21 km A nice easy stroll out of Logroño, through city streets and a green park where people were walking their dogs. Less than 5 km after leaving, the path curved around a lake (with ducks and swans) and into pine trees in Parque de Grajera. Before…
-
Camino de Santiago: Into Rioja
Many pilgrims walk from Los Arcos to Logroño in one stage. I divided it in 2 shorter segments and stayed a night in Viana – relaxing and enjoying vino rosado (rosé) with some other pilgrims on the main street in town. Los Arcos to Viana – 18.5 km Viana to Logroño – 9.5 km The sun was rising behind me as I left Los Arcos. The flattering light set the landscape aglow in orange. And elongated my shadow diligently accompanying me. The landscape was changing. More and more vineyards with bunches of grapes positively dripping from the vines. The smell of fermented grapes perfumed the air. Some pesky little mosquitoes were…
-
Camino de Santiago: Windmills of Navarra
It’s been a good three days of walking across, up, and over the landscape of Navarra. Green mountains, distant chalky cliffs, red soil, small villages, a hilltop castle, and, oh those lovely vineyards with deep purple grapes. Pamplona to Puente de Reina – 27 km (includes 3 km detour to Saint Eunate) Puente de Reina to Estella – 22 km Estella to Los Arcos – 21.5 km The first part of the walk to Puente La Reina was defined by wind. As soon as I left the outskirts of Pamplona I could see a line of modern white windmills along the crest of a mountain. The more I walked the…
-
Camino de Santiago: Over the Pyrenees
I have arrived in Pamplona. I feel my legs, for sure, they have been worked, but I am feeling quite happy with the journey. It’s been a great 4 days of walking. Saint Jean Pied to Port to the Virgin of Biakkori – 12 km Virgin of Biakkori to Roncesvalles – 13 km Roncesvalles to Zubiri – 22 km Zubiri to Pamplona – 21 km On my first two days I climbed up and over the Pyrenees past caramel coloured cows and herds of sheep with griffon vultures cruising overhead. The skies were clear as I climbed the first segment so I had expansive views over the beautiful green mountains. The…
-
The scallop shell: a symbol of the Camino de Santiago
On my last visit to Spain I was fortunate to visit Casa de las Conchas in Salamanca. The facade of this unique building is decorated with 300 scallop shells. The house was built by a knight of the order of Santiago. These knights protected pilgrims walking the long journey to northwestern Spain to pay homage to Santiago (Saint James). The pilgrimage dates from medieval times. Around 813, the legend is a hermit Pelayo followed a trail of stars into a field and discovered the burial place of Saint James, one of the first disciples of Jesus Christ. News of the discovery spread. People from across Europe began to walk to…
-
Holiday traditions
My living room is decked out for the holidays all Hyggelig (remember the Danish concept of cosy contentedness?). Many of the same ornaments adorn our home year after year, including my retro 1970s reindeers, one of my grandmother’s hand-stitched stockings and my daughter’s crafts from when she was little. I enjoy these familiar traditions. Though it’s also fun to learn new ones. Which brings me to a popular Spanish tradition. La Lotería de Navidad or the Christmas Lottery. I happened upon this tradition in Madrid this October. I noticed a long line of people winding around a block in the Puerta del Sol area. They were waiting patiently, not for…
-
A souvenir from Segovia
When I return from a trip my Mom asks me the same question: “Don’t you get lonely eating alone?” It’s true, eating can be a social activity. That is the essence of going out for tapas, or tapeo, in Spain. It’s a communal experience. You share plates with your friends and family. Thankfully a tapas tour allows a solo traveller to get a taste of this tradition with borrowed friends for an evening. The photos below are from my fun tapas and flamenco tour in Madrid with Isabel from Devour Tours. Tapas aside, my Mom’s question is not about sharing food, but sharing a table at a restaurant. In truth,…
-
Climbing the medieval wall of Ávila
I arrived late in the day in Ávila. The medieval walled town was a short train ride from Salamanca and I planned to stay the night. My tardy arrival meant it was too late to climb the wall. Plus, I left my climbing rope, helmet and carabiners at home. I jest. Nowadays, the gates are always open in Ávila. I entered through one of the 9 openings in the thick stone wall. You don’t enter by tossing a rope over the wall and hoisting yourself up. It’s 12 metre high. Surely that can’t be safe? Would you even be allowed to scale a 12th century wall? All good questions. One…
