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The monumental dome of Saint Peter’s Basilica
There’s a small keyhole in a green door on Aventine hill. The property belongs to the Knights of Malta (passed down from the Knights of Templar from the Middle Ages, but that’s a whole other story). If you look through this tiny opening, less than an inch in diameter, there’s a peculiar view. Is it intentional or coincidence? We do not know. But what you see is quite clear. There is a direct line of sight to the Vatican: a perfectly framed view of the dome of Saint Peter’s Basilica. I did not see this particular view while in Rome. But to see this enormous dome through a miniature window would be…
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Aperitivo hour
A café-bar in Rome (and Italy) is multi-purpose. They serve the strong shots of coffee my husband so misses, but there’s more. These institutions transition from day to night. The fast efficient tempo of a caffè standing at the bar morphs into a relaxed pace in the evening. The clang of cup on saucer is replaced by the clink of ice and gentle fizz of Prosecco. The pastries are cleared out. It’s time for something salty: crispy chips or a soft panini with fresh cheese and tomatoes. You move from the bright light of the bar to the dusky evening as the sky turns indigo. You don’t stand, you sit. It’s time for…
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The finale in Assisi
My walking trip ends in Assisi. I enter town beside the massive wooden doors of Porto Nuovo. Like the other medieval towns I visit, there are stony walls, charming cobbled laneways, archways and old buildings that look pleasingly lopsided. But this larger town feels different. As the most visited place in Umbria, it’s no surprise I see more people inside the gate. And plenty of touristy shops. But mostly I notice Christmas music. It’s pumping out of speakers along the street. 🎵 It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas, every where you go… I heard a surprising amount of Micheal Bublé during the holidays in Italy. In Assisi, it certainly…
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Spello on my mind
Spello, Spello. I feel like I visit this charming hilltop town twice: in person and in my mind. After my walk from Bevagna (14.5 km) I spend two nights in Spello. I explore the cobbled lanes of this rosy-hued town that cascades down the hill. I visit churches, see incredible Roman mosaics from an ancient villa, buy handcrafted items (necklace, cards) in small shops and eat amazing food (including a glorious lasagna with delicate sheets of pasta and a savoury ragú). That’s my first visit. I revisit the beautiful town, at home, as I read Michelle Damiani’s book Il Bel Centro. The author, an American from Virginia, chronicles her year living…
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Misty Bevagna
Bevagna is special. It’s a rare medieval town located on the valley floor alongside the Topino river, rather than perched on a hilltop. Beyond the unique location my visit is special for several reasons. For starters, I feel like the only non-Italian tourist in Bevagna. I wander within its protective walls and peak around alleyways in relative tranquility. If there is chatter, it is only Italian. My walk to Bevagna is lovely. After descending from the clouds high atop Montefalco, most of my 11 km walk is on flat terrain in glorious sunshine. My first view of Bevagna is under a brilliant blue sky. Soon after entering the walls I…
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Into the Umbrian countryside in Montefalco
Patrizia is waiting to greet me on the platform of the train station in Foligno, about 40 km from Perugia. She’s holding hands with a little boy, her grandson, and smiles at me warmly, “Andrea?” Her daughter Guilia is waiting in the car. Her youngest son is sleeping soundly in his car seat. It certainly is a family run business! The two women operate Italian Delights. They have organized the self-guided walking tour I will be doing over the next 6 nights in Umbria. With the five of us tucked in the car, Guilia drives us out of Foligno and into the Umbrian countryside. We are soon winding up a…
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My introduction to Umbria in Perugia
It’s an adventure to arrive in Perugia. Three hours north of Rome, Perugia is the capital of Umbria. I arrive by train, and though the train station is only 1.6 km from the historic centre, it’s not a distance to attempt by foot. The hostess at the hotel tells me when guests arrive by foot they are not happy. It’s a steep, steep, climb. Thankfully I had read about Perugia’s impressive hilltop location. I did not attempt the walk. I took the MiniMetró. This public transport system is as cute as it sounds. My best description is a gondola car on a rollercoaster track. The car does not zip along…
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Holiday traditions
My living room is decked out for the holidays all Hyggelig (remember the Danish concept of cosy contentedness?). Many of the same ornaments adorn our home year after year, including my retro 1970s reindeers, one of my grandmother’s hand-stitched stockings and my daughter’s crafts from when she was little. I enjoy these familiar traditions. Though it’s also fun to learn new ones. Which brings me to a popular Spanish tradition. La Lotería de Navidad or the Christmas Lottery. I happened upon this tradition in Madrid this October. I noticed a long line of people winding around a block in the Puerta del Sol area. They were waiting patiently, not for…
