Camino de Santiago: Cruz de Ferro

Walking the Camino is a physical challenge. I felt this exertion in my body in these stages. The Camino also grants you time to work through life’s challenges, like how to let go.

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino – 20.6 km

Rabanal del Camino to Acebo -16.5 km

Acebo to Ponferrada – 15 km

Out of Astorga and into different terrain. Sweet smelling too. Thyme, lavender, lilacs and a scent reminding me of watermelons. I also started to see Camino markers with the Knights of Templar symbol, a red cross.

Leisurely stop at pretty Santa Carolina de Samoza. Chose a sunny spot outdoors, Shania Twain playing on the radio. Started out on my own but the table filled with pilgrim friends. A man from the UK told us he’s walked 17 Caminos! 10 were the Camino Francés. For scenic and spiritual reasons his favourite stretch was Astorga to Sarria, which we’d just entered. He valued the ritual at the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) of leaving a stone representing a burden or something to let go of. What do I want to leave behind? With the Cruz de Ferro the next day, I had something to ponder on my walk to Rabanal del Camino.

Beautiful scenery, blossoms and flowers were abundant. Whenever I came across my friend from Belgium she seemed to be inspecting the blooms and wild flowers. She pointed out purple wild orchids. The hills and low stone walls reminded her of the Aubrac region, a picturesque section of the Camino Le Puy (in France). Snow capped mountains in the distance.

Rabanal del Camino was a town well-equipped with pilgrim services. Multiple shops selling anything you needed. My posada was also equipped with a small library; picked out a book on Ikigai for some bedtime reading.

In the evening the Benedictine monks from the Monastery San Salvador del Monte Irago led Gregorian chants in the rustic 12th century church. Latin chants, guides were available with translated verses. As the sound of our voices echoed through the ancient space I was struck how we were gathered from around the world. We were all trying something new, outside our comfort zone. Afterwards I chatted with a pilgrim from Germany who decided on a whim to stay at the Monastery for 2 nights. She had simply stopped for a stamp and got talking to a monk. “My plans changed,” she said.

Glorious mountain scenery the next day. Hillsides carpeted in purple blossomed shrubs.

Peaceful climb up to the Cruz de Ferro. It was one of those moments where I was content to walk alone as I considered the ritual of leaving the stone I brought from home and decorated lovingly by my family. I decided the day prior what I wanted to ‘leave behind’, but how to let go was more challenging to figure out. More challenging than the steady climb through trees and over little streams of flowing water.

Short break at Foncebadón for a slice of cherry cake before the final 2 km climb. And a final moment with my stone that had been tucked into the pocket of my backpack since I left home.

In Marjorin a caravan appeared amongst the wild terrain. The owners live in a casita on the spot. The woman, Sol, told me pilgrims kept stopping to ask if they had food or water so she figured it was a good spot for a caravan. It had not been their plan. The trailer-café has an good assortment of snacks and beverages. It opened three years ago and mostly remains a surprise as it’s not yet on maps or guidebooks. Sorpresa!

Lovely walk across the mountainside before a tough descent. Very rocky, glad to have my poles. And glad to commiserate with other pilgrims as we took it nice and slow down the rocks to save our knees. Brazilian quartet whistling Dire Straights.

I was absolutely delighted to finally see the tiny village of Acebo, my stop for the night. Relieved might be a better word. I got a good look at the town below before descending. I spotted a couple of pilgrims gingerly walking down the stairs outside their hotel. I was not the only one with aching knees that day! I learned a lot about other Camino routes over dinner in my Albergue. I chatted with a pilgrim from Miami walking the Camino in reverse. He’s walked too many pilgrimages to list, but a recent highlight was the Shikoko (88 temples) in Japan.

Acebo, perched on the mountainside, was a fabulous location to see the sunset.

The walk leaving Acebo was stunning. I was in heaven – fragrant white blossoms, yellow blooms and lots of lavender. Rugged and wild terrain.

The path led down into a gorge, thick in trees, rushing water, similar feel as cottage landscape. But then I came across a grove of ancient chestnut trees, it’s Spain!

The village of Riego de Ambros, with scent of wood fire, was a particularly picturesque village part way down the mountain.

Descent ended at Molinaseca where I stopped for a short break. Leaving the town I passed a Camino marker in Japanese and then walked with a pilgrim from Japan (who I met at the Cruz de Ferro the previous day). She was in a similar situation as me, having walked Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Burgos in the Fall and restarting in Burgos at the beginning of April. The pale purple wisteria (or fuji in Japanese) was abundant.

Approach into Ponferrada seemed to take a circuitous route around the city. I could see the city to my right for the longest time but did not seem to be getting closer! I finally crossed a medieval bridge into the centre, and then emerging from a narrow street I was confronted with the storybook Templar Castle. It makes an impact. Later in the afternoon I returned to visit the expansive castle. My tour was made better as I had company, a young man from Hungary entering the gate at the same time. We both knew little about the mysterious order of Templar Knights (research for later) but the setting sparked a conversation on a topic we were both more familiar with, Game of Thrones.

Three terrific days in the mountains of León. Sometimes I pause in awe and think “Wow, I’m walking across Spain!” That’s 283 km now.