Camino de Santiago: Into Galicia
I reached the 100 km mark in these stages. 100 km to go! The Camino offers up new physical challenges and good advice from a pilgrim friend how to accept and release pain (it is only temporary). As we near Santiago some reflections with other pilgrims on Camino lessons to take home.
Las Herrerías to Fonfría – 20.1 km
Fonfría to Sarria – 28 km
Sarria to Portomarín – 22.7 km
Portomarín to Palas de Rei – 24.6 km
It was back into the mountains leaving Las Herrerías. A good morning climb up to O’Cebriero. Stopped in La Faba for a fresh avocado and tomato toast and orange juice at a cute café on the hillside, seating with a gorgeous view. More climbing, more great views. Before arriving at the top (O’Cebriero is at 1300 m elevation), I crossed the border into Galicia, my final province on this journey. The town felt like a theme park after the tranquility of my morning. Souvenir shops, music playing, tour groups. I enjoyed my visit to the lovely stone church, and lit a candle, grateful to be on this journey and for the distance travelled. I saw my first palloza, a traditional Galician building with thatched roof designed to withstand the high winds and snow.
I will see the inside of one of these abodes at dinner in my Albergue, but first let me tell you about my walking companion for the second part of my walk: Luis from El Bierzo region. I had just been thinking it had been a while since I chatted with someone from Spain (since leaving Léon), and then the next person I met was Luis. He was convinced there was a bar cercita (very close) but he was used to driving there, walking takes longer! Also, he would often stop in his tracks to emphasize a point. Finally, after another 3 or 4 kilometers and up a steep climb, we arrived. The bar certainly was well located, I think everyone stops to rest on the terrace at the top of the demanding climb. A good helping of tuna empanada and fresh squeezed OJ, and we were refuelled.
Fonfría for the night. Truly enjoyable stay at Albergue Reboleira. Met a couple from the UK walking the Camino with their 11 month old son. I was chatting with the mother in the common room as the baby amused himself moving around the room, crawling and pulling himself up on tables and couches. Then I saw him take a couple wobbly steps. Mom’s face became emotional. “Where those his first steps?”, I asked. She nodded. Amazing. I witnessed a baby’s first steps. He’s destined to walk the Camino.
A beautiful communal meal in the palloza, served family style. On the table were big soup tureens of Caldo (traditional vegetable soup), platters of rice and tender beef stew in gravy, and bottles of red wine. Music and clapping erupted as our host brought dessert, a Tarta de Santiago (almond cake). All delicious. I sat beside fervent Madrid Real fans, big game against Barcelona that evening which I had also heard from Luis. Madrid won. There were very few of us in the large dorm room. Thankfully a good quiet night.
I departed Albergue Reboleira before breakfast to start my descent down the mountain. It was not long before I came across a café, decorated with farm equipment, for a quick tostada and, of course, fresh squeezed zumo de naranja.
The walk to Sarria was my last day without crowds. Few people on the trail … plenty of cows. Beautiful lush forests. Gentle ascents and descents. Pretty stone buildings. I experienced another family Camino moment – met an Italian biking the Camino (from Léon) with his 7 year old son. Courageous!
It was one of my longest walks (28 km). My blisters were enlarged when I arrived in Sarria so I was happy to restock on Compeed at the first hiking store I came across. That’s all the touring of Sarria I did!
Big transition leaving Sarria. Tons more people. It was a bit jarring even though I had been warned. Even though I was in herds of people I still found myself in a herd of cows. They were close enough to touch. I stepped back as the sheppard steered them away from me!
A couple nice musical moments. First, a man playing Galician bagpipes. I could hear the distinctive sound floating through the forest long before I spotted him. Second, a man playing guitar, a Nancy Sinatra classic that always puts a skip in my step.
🎵 These boots are made for walking, and that’s just what they’ll do, one of these days these boots are gonna walk all over you … 🎵
I was impelled to do a little dance as I walked by. Very pleased my boots walked me almost 700 km!
I walked amongst many, yet not familiar faces. Thankfully that changed after crossing the very long bridge and climbing the massive staircase to arrive in Portomarín. Ice cream with my Templar Castle friend (giving me the advice I needed to hear on dealing with painful blisters), lunch with my paella partner from León, and a familiar voice as I walked into Albergue Huellas: a West Coast pilgrim I had seen here and there since the days on the Meseta. She was the one who invited me to join a large table of pilgrims for dinner in Carrión de Condes and this evening again arranged my dinner, inviting me to join the impromptu communal meal of anchovy pasta and other grocery store finds. It came together brilliantly.
It was a very enjoyable dinner as we shared Camino takeaways we would bring home: importance of human connection, gratitude for what we are given (like sheets and towels that we take for granted at home), noticing the little things in our surroundings, allowing ourselves to rest when needed, and being happy with a simpler life.
I’d say that’s a pretty good list.
Early morning fog on the river leaving Portomarín. A frenzy of activity on the trail with many energetic school groups. It made me smile to think of my daughter doing a week on the Camino in high school, imagine?! Different atmosphere than tranquility pre-Sarria. It was a new dimension to incorporate in my experience. I started asking some youngsters where they were from (as they speed by me in fresh sneakers, chatting away, sometimes playing music). Valencia, Madrid, Seville, Murxia. Without fail they asked me where I was from and wished me a Buen Camino. Such good manners.
I walked a stretch with a young man from Israel and then met two of my dinner mates from Albergue Huellas. One from the UK (maker of the delicious anchovy pasta), the other from Germany. They became friends a few years ago on the Camino and have since walked several routes together.
A beautiful verdant forest led into Palas de Rei. As I was walking around town, I ran into my rainy day walking companion from over 2 weeks ago. This is a joyful trait of the Camino: people show up, disappear and then pop up again. We went to a restaurant called Pasta and got caught up over a satisfying helping of pasta. Her rain gear may have failed her but her feet were faring much better than mine. She had a massage in Sarria and the therapist declared her feet to be in perfect shape for pilgrim feet!
