Camino de Santiago: Leaving León

The walking and the pilgrim community are a huge part of the Camino experience. On top of this the days take place in Spain! I feel fortunate to see and experience unique Spanish traditions along the way: city celebrations, brilliant stain glass, Gaudi architecture, shepherds herding sheep, fresh squeezed OJ…

León free day

León to San Martin del Camino – 26 km

San Martin del Camino to Astorga – 23.8 km

I had no idea of the stain glass that awaited inside León Cathedral. Stepping inside the dark gothic cathedral it’s almost shocking to see all the bright coloured windows. I particularly liked the leafy motives of vines and other vegetation.

The library at the museum San Isidoro was fascinating: 10,000 very old books, tattered and worn, some massive, the length of my arm. “Que maravilla,” I overheard a Spanish couple say as they inspected intricate metalwork on a gilded silver chest from 11th century. “Es maravilloso.”

Outside parades of huge flags from different cites congregated. Music, traditional dancing and speeches. No clue what it was (even after asking a couple people) but there was plenty of cheering and clapping. 

It was nice to have a day in León though I was eager to get walking the next day. On the way out of the city I passed by the beautiful San Marco parador with its stunning stonework. The pilgrim sculpture, repose with eyes closed and shoes off, was one of my favourites so far. A cherished moment of rest.

Fortunately I walked out of León on Sunday as the industrial strip leaving the city was not busy. I savoured a fresh and large helping of orange juice at Bar Virgen del Camino. How I love the fresh squeezed orange juice in Spain! Much of the trail then followed alongside a highway. Some interesting features: two story stork nests on a church, hobbit-like houses built into the earth, a cluster of trees full of raven nests and deep croaking of frogs from irrigation ditches.

I was delighted to find a bar open in Villadango del Páramo after a long and hot stretch. I was almost out of water; the woman at the bar filled my bottle and served me a free tapa of delicious rice. Met my third José today – that’s Valencia, Barcelona and Madrid.

In many towns I have been noticing groups of men playing cards late afternoon, the café in Albergue La Huella seemed to be the local hot spot in San Martin del Camino. After doing my laundry and showering I returned to the cafeteria and all tables were full. Cards games in progress.

A nice couple from Madrid invited me to join them for dinner. After touring the small town (nothing was open) they suggested visiting the neighbouring Albergue. Just as we sat down on the terrace it was time for the evening sheep crossing! That was only the beginning of our special experience. The owner Patricia offered to make us dinner (even though the restaurant was not open) – individual Spanish tortillas (chorizo or queso) and a big salad with apples and tomatoes. She joined us for a drink and in quick fire Spanish regaled us with stories of high season, notably preparing a huge paella to serve seventy guests. That would be a sight!

The landscape started to change the next day on the walk to Astorga. At Hospital del Obrigo I crossed the impressive 200 metre long medieval bridge. It had 20 arches.

After the town the path started to gently climb. A hint of the ascents to come. Bright blue skies, green fields, pine trees and red dirt path. Mostly a solitary walk except for the company of song – four Brazilians happily singing as they walked. Also, the most extensive donativo rest stop I had ever seen, a veritable buffet!

Before visiting the sights in Astorga I gobbled up a Hojaldre, a puff pastry concoction with sweet syrup, and promptly bought two more for the road. Palacio Gaudí was a highlight: beautiful stain glass, cathedral-like windows and soaring ceilings. My dorm room at Albergue My Way was rather cramped but the fun and delicious communal meal made up for it. Our discussion covered many topics from early morning packing strategies to dogs we miss at home. Then I had a relaxing evening lounging in the garden. As I write this post church bells chime for 9 o’clock – almost time for bed!