Travel stories
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Camino de Santiago: Grapes, wine and sunflowers in Rioja
Rioja is beautiful. A small region with big landscapes, and of course, big wines. I walked across it 3 short days. It could certainly be done in 2 but I was glad to extend my stay. The days were over far too fast. Logroño to Navarette – 13 km Navarette to Najéra – 16 km Najéra to Santo Domingo de la Calzada – 21 km A nice easy stroll out of Logroño, through city streets and a green park where people were walking their dogs. Less than 5 km after leaving, the path curved around a lake (with ducks and swans) and into pine trees in Parque de Grajera. Before…
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Camino de Santiago: Into Rioja
Many pilgrims walk from Los Arcos to Logroño in one stage. I divided it in 2 shorter segments and stayed a night in Viana – relaxing and enjoying vino rosado (rosé) with some other pilgrims on the main street in town. Los Arcos to Viana – 18.5 km Viana to Logroño – 9.5 km The sun was rising behind me as I left Los Arcos. The flattering light set the landscape aglow in orange. And elongated my shadow diligently accompanying me. The landscape was changing. More and more vineyards with bunches of grapes positively dripping from the vines. The smell of fermented grapes perfumed the air. Some pesky little mosquitoes were…
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Camino de Santiago: Windmills of Navarra
It’s been a good three days of walking across, up, and over the landscape of Navarra. Green mountains, distant chalky cliffs, red soil, small villages, a hilltop castle, and, oh those lovely vineyards with deep purple grapes. Pamplona to Puente de Reina – 27 km (includes 3 km detour to Saint Eunate) Puente de Reina to Estella – 22 km Estella to Los Arcos – 21.5 km The first part of the walk to Puente La Reina was defined by wind. As soon as I left the outskirts of Pamplona I could see a line of modern white windmills along the crest of a mountain. The more I walked the…
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Camino de Santiago: Over the Pyrenees
I have arrived in Pamplona. I feel my legs, for sure, they have been worked, but I am feeling quite happy with the journey. It’s been a great 4 days of walking. Saint Jean Pied to Port to the Virgin of Biakkori – 12 km Virgin of Biakkori to Roncesvalles – 13 km Roncesvalles to Zubiri – 22 km Zubiri to Pamplona – 21 km On my first two days I climbed up and over the Pyrenees past caramel coloured cows and herds of sheep with griffon vultures cruising overhead. The skies were clear as I climbed the first segment so I had expansive views over the beautiful green mountains. The…
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The scallop shell: a symbol of the Camino de Santiago
On my last visit to Spain I was fortunate to visit Casa de las Conchas in Salamanca. The facade of this unique building is decorated with 300 scallop shells. The house was built by a knight of the order of Santiago. These knights protected pilgrims walking the long journey to northwestern Spain to pay homage to Santiago (Saint James). The pilgrimage dates from medieval times. Around 813, the legend is a hermit Pelayo followed a trail of stars into a field and discovered the burial place of Saint James, one of the first disciples of Jesus Christ. News of the discovery spread. People from across Europe began to walk to…
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The monumental dome of Saint Peter’s Basilica
There’s a small keyhole in a green door on Aventine hill. The property belongs to the Knights of Malta (passed down from the Knights of Templar from the Middle Ages, but that’s a whole other story). If you look through this tiny opening, less than an inch in diameter, there’s a peculiar view. Is it intentional or coincidence? We do not know. But what you see is quite clear. There is a direct line of sight to the Vatican: a perfectly framed view of the dome of Saint Peter’s Basilica. I did not see this particular view while in Rome. But to see this enormous dome through a miniature window would be…
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The Colosseum
We saw it for the first time walking back to the apartment after our traditional seafood Christmas Eve dinner at Ristorante iClementini. It was around 10:30 pm. Lite up with yellow lights against the dark sky, the Colosseum stood there. Solemn. Impressive. Beautiful. Airy with open rounded arches stacked on top of each other to form the three lower stories. Inspired by the Greeks semi-circled amphitheaters, Romans added the other half to the structure. The result was a 160 feet high, 280 feet long, and 165 feet wide oval shaped monument that could accommodate 50,000 people. The construction of the Colosseum and its 40 feet deep concrete foundation started in…
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Early morning at the Pantheon
I am sent early to get in line before the crowds descend on the Pantheon. No more than a dozen people are ahead of me. While I look for my family, I cannot help but admire the Pantheon. This monument has seen so much history. The Pantheon, initially built in 27 B.C. and rebuilt around 120 A.D., was dedicated to all the Roman gods. It is built on a circular foundation and mostly made up of bricks with a concrete shell as a surface creating 20 feet thick walls. I cannot see the dome from where I stand. But I can see columns. There are sixteen of them. Each one…
