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My introduction to Umbria in Perugia
It’s an adventure to arrive in Perugia. Three hours north of Rome, Perugia is the capital of Umbria. I arrive by train, and though the train station is only 1.6 km from the historic centre, it’s not a distance to attempt by foot. The hostess at the hotel tells me when guests arrive by foot they are not happy. It’s a steep, steep, climb. Thankfully I had read about Perugia’s impressive hilltop location. I did not attempt the walk. I took the MiniMetró. This public transport system is as cute as it sounds. My best description is a gondola car on a rollercoaster track. The car does not zip along…
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Holiday traditions
My living room is decked out for the holidays all Hyggelig (remember the Danish concept of cosy contentedness?). Many of the same ornaments adorn our home year after year, including my retro 1970s reindeers, one of my grandmother’s hand-stitched stockings and my daughter’s crafts from when she was little. I enjoy these familiar traditions. Though it’s also fun to learn new ones. Which brings me to a popular Spanish tradition. La Lotería de Navidad or the Christmas Lottery. I happened upon this tradition in Madrid this October. I noticed a long line of people winding around a block in the Puerta del Sol area. They were waiting patiently, not for…
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A souvenir from Segovia
When I return from a trip my Mom asks me the same question: “Don’t you get lonely eating alone?” It’s true, eating can be a social activity. That is the essence of going out for tapas, or tapeo, in Spain. It’s a communal experience. You share plates with your friends and family. Thankfully a tapas tour allows a solo traveller to get a taste of this tradition with borrowed friends for an evening. The photos below are from my fun tapas and flamenco tour in Madrid with Isabel from Devour Tours. Tapas aside, my Mom’s question is not about sharing food, but sharing a table at a restaurant. In truth,…
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Climbing the medieval wall of Ávila
I arrived late in the day in Ávila. The medieval walled town was a short train ride from Salamanca and I planned to stay the night. My tardy arrival meant it was too late to climb the wall. Plus, I left my climbing rope, helmet and carabiners at home. I jest. Nowadays, the gates are always open in Ávila. I entered through one of the 9 openings in the thick stone wall. You don’t enter by tossing a rope over the wall and hoisting yourself up. It’s 12 metre high. Surely that can’t be safe? Would you even be allowed to scale a 12th century wall? All good questions. One…
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The underground of Salamanca
My tour guide Maria pulls a set of keys from her pocket. We’ve walk up to an iron gate. It’s about 8 pm. There is only a trace of indigo in the sky. She opens the gate and the three of us walk through. We are in an open area surrounded by stone walls, but it’s hard to see anything in the darkness. Maria opens a metal panel on the wall and I hear some clicks. Nothing happens. The other woman on the tour, Juana from Seville, shines her iphone flashlight at the panel. Maria tries another switch and the lights go on. Olé! I still have no idea where…
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Spotting frogs and astronauts in Salamanca
It was Saturday afternoon. The entrance to Salamanca’s University was packed. Packed with tour groups like the one I was in and other visitors craning their necks to inspect the detailed facade of the graceful stone building. The facade is a feast of mythical creatures, archbishops, kings and queens, busts and skulls, decorative foliage, coats of arms. It warrants a good inspection. It’s a fascinating scene. But there was something specific people were searching for. A frog. Una rana. The frog is considered a good luck charm. If, only if, you can spot it without assistance. It doesn’t count if you have help. Some hopeful students search for it before…
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The enchanting Plaza Mayor of Salamanca
Less than 2 hours by high speed train from Madrid, across the barren plains of Castilla y León, I arrived in the city of Salamanca. Nicknamed the Golden City (La Dorada), this university town practically glows thanks to the unique ochre stone of its buildings. (The golden sandstone is quarried from the nearby village of Villamayor.) Entering the historic area it’s easy to see Salamanca is very beautiful. Besides the radiance of the stone, there is an insane amount of intricate carvings on the buildings – on facades, rooftops, window ledges, cornices and columns. Everywhere. More than pretty stonework, the city is brimming with history so I signed up for…
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A look at year 3
It is coming up on three years since my first post. I am inclined to review or reflect on another passing year. Unlike any performance review I had to conduct at work, my “reviews” don’t take any set form. The first year marked highlights and the second marked 100 posts. Looking back on this third year, a clear theme emerges. I have been fortunate to travel and it’s been all about Spain. As I do like creating lists (like delightful things about winter), the list in my notebook that has become longer and longer this year is “Things I love about Spain”. There could be many sub-categories, be it architecture,…
